Twists, turns, hidden driveways, trees, flowers, bushes and difficult parking; that’s our first impressions of this beautiful area.

The Adelaide Hills are beautiful but they not designed for towing caravans! Twists, turns, hills, concealed driveways, myriad of small junctions. But we finally made it into our home sit property and then had trouble getting out due to a tight turning space and various obstacles (a whole other story!).

Once we finally maneuvered the caravan 360 degrees and back up the driveway, we were grateful for alternative parking in a farmer’s field at Woodside, 30 minutes from the house and a quaint wee town which we enjoyed exploring too.

NOTE TO SELVES: if you can’t physically check out a property ask for a video chat to confirm there is easy access for your rig.

Anyway, for three separate weeks we had agreed to care for three ponies, two chooks a dog and a frog. Frog was by far easiest to care for but in all fairness all the animals were easy care thanks to the training and preparedness of their owner.

Our housesit owner recommended a few local walks which proved delightful.

The Laratinga Wetlands in Mount Barker are a bird watchers treat and easy flat walking. Benches around the trail offer shade or sun for a picnic lunch. Or, you could take something to throw on the BBQs near the car park.

Several times we meandered the Woorabinda Bushland Reserve and circling the lake and chatting to other fellow walkers out for stroll.

We toured the upper areas of the Mount Lofty Botanical Gardens and some of the trails within the National Park. From the Flinders Column at the summit you can take in the expansive views across the Adelaide plain out to the St Vincent Gulf.

The views amongst the hills are really beautiful too and the small, pretty towns offer cafes, providores, bars, boutique shops and more.

There are loads of places to explore but the most renowned would be Hahndorf, where we stopped for an afternoon.

The town is named after Captain Hahn who helped negotiate the land and right to settle for the German Lutherans fleeing persecution by the King of Prussia.

Hahndorf is still proud of its heritage and daily draws in hundreds of tourists and day trippers from Adelaide and surrounds. German beer, music and delicacies are all on sale along the main street.

On the edge of The Adelaide Hills area is a Scottish town, Strathalbyn. Not depicting nearly the same Scottish influence as Hahndorf does German, it is nevertheless a very picturesque town with the stunning, well-kept Soldier’s Memorial Garden park spread over both sides of the Angas River. Cafes and Hotels set out tables to overlook the garden park and picnickers spread their blankets on the lush grass to enjoy the sun or shade, dependent on temperatures.

We enjoyed strolling the main street of Stirling. And yes – there’s even a Stirling Castle (Hotel), though not named after the Scottish city of the same name but the son of a British West Indies planter.

 I’d heard of the Red Cacao on the main street, a chocolatier and café. I simply had to drop in. The Native Blend called my name when I knew the botanical flavour was peppermint gum infused into a large mug of hot chocolate. It was delicious!

Otherwise, we spent much of our time on catching up with some life. The caravan got serviced and cleaned. We arranged medical health checks. We caught up with a cousin living nearby. We celebrated Christmas. We made sure to care for the animals and water the garden to maintain its colourful flowers and range of home-grown foods.

I had time to photograph the birdlife that also enjoyed the area. To name a few, I captured images of Adelaide Rosellas, Superb Fairy Wrens, White Throated Tree Creepers and Grey Currawongs.

There is lots more to do, see, taste and explore in the Adelaide Hills. We felt like we only scratched the surface.

I picked up some teaching work at Whyalla.

Otherwise, we wouldn’t have planned to stop in Whyalla. It’s a town sitting on the edge of a flat coastal plain and is dominated by the steel works with a few added attractions.

The council do seem to be trying hard to welcome tourists so here are my top tips.

1.    Walk the famous circular jetty. It’s pretty unique!

2.    Take a dip in the swimming net inside the marina.

3.    Drive up to Hummock Hill to see the expanse of the steel manufacturing complex and be saddened how humans scar this amazing countryside. Also look out over the wide mudflats when the tide is out, a long way out!

4.    Walk out to the waters edge when the tide is low but be careful to beat it back to shore.

5.    Stroll around the wetlands. You’ll get your steps in, see some birdlife and can refresh at the excellent café.

6.    Wander through Ada Park. It’s like a mini botanical garden and has some colourful birds in large aviaries to say hello to.

7.     Fishing is reported to be good around high tide.

8.    If here in season (May to August), we weren’t, see the cuttlefish and enjoy the fest!

What a charming discovery Cleve has been!

Cleve is a farming district and the town at its centre bears the same name. The folks are ever so friendly and generous.

To draw in more travelling tourists away from the popular coast, the council and the Agricultural Showground Committee have set up a brilliant RV site. For $10 you get a site with water and for $15 you can add power. And there is a spacious camp kitchen with hot water, hot showers and toilets all kept immaculately clean.

The Bakery gives away breads and cakes that are coming to the end of their best before date on a Friday at the camp kitchen. We’d bought a richly seeded sour dough early in the week and bagged a chocolate madeira cake for dessert on Friday evening. Both were excellent!

We’d been searching for tonic water cordial for our Soda Stream system for over a month and found it at the electrical store in Cleve, of all places!

The pub is spacious, welcoming and reasonably priced. Their pizzas are supposed to be superb. So too is the meat supplied by the local butcher.

You can chat over a coffee at the Pink Door Café next to Foodland on the main street and the ladies in the two op shops in town are ready to show you what’s on offer.

Taking advantage of the town as a base, we completed a triangular driving tour from Cleve, to Cowell, to Arno Bay and back.

Starting with 5km to Yeldulknie Weir, we discovered its history and walked around the reservoir. Bird spotting was the game and we did spy a few water birds and honeyeaters.

About 30km further along the Birdseye Highway stands a May Gibbs memorial next to an impressive gum tree. This area was where May first settled on arrival in Australia and perhaps here was inspired to imagine her famous gumnut babies.

Cowell, on the coast, has several historic and attractive buildings to admire. It’s home to the Franklin Harbour District Council. The bay is a naturally protected harbour, having a narrow entrance. The tide rushes in and out which keeps the water filled with clay and silt particles.

A short mangrove boardwalk gives vantage point over the mudflats at low tide. We were taken aback by the number of tractors parked in a line near the boat slipway. Oysters are big business here now but it was wheat and wool agricultural land that brought settlers.

Don’t miss the silos art work as you leave or enter the town.

Driving southward we popped in to see the soft sediment cliffs at Redbank Beach. These would be so pretty lit up by the morning sunrise I suspect.

Then we arrived at Arno Bay. This is a hamlet really with holiday homes but once was much busier. Money has been spent here on boating facilities. There is an excellent boat ramp and mini marina for those with boats to head out on the sea in search of King George Whiting.

Us landlubbers, chose to wander the coastline along the newly laid gravel path past some properties that made us jealous of their permanent views. The path led to a recently installed boardwalk leading to a sweeping bay and distant glimpses back to Redbanks Beach.

Next, we sauntered along the fabulous boardwalk at the southern end of town. One direction snakes through the mangroves and salty dry marshlands. There are two shelters one could use as semi bird hides. The tidal estuary brings fish for catching with a line as well as providing hiding spaces for fish nurseries. The other direction follows the estuary water down to the wide beach area where we saw a large flock of gulls and cormorants on a sand bank. White breasted chats scurried among the low bushes in the rippling sand too. And there are more fishing spots to try your luck at.

And then it was back to Cleve.

Lincoln National Park lies on the opposite side of the Eyre Peninusla’s tip. The road there again is sealed apart from some side tracks and the main dirt road out to Wanna and the Memory Cove Wilderness Protection Area.

This road is rough. I imagine it gets even more challenging to travers after the gate to the Cove. You need to collect a key from Port Lincoln Tourist Information to pass through.

Wanna was a picturesque if rugged and desolate spot. The big attraction would be Wedding Cake Island and the stack next to it, atop of which a pair of sea eagles or osprey have built their nest. My brilliant camera lens didn’t quite focus that far to identify which species the big bird I saw was.

At the end of the bitumen road, you can opt to hike up the hill to the Flinders' Monument and/or stroll the shelly beach and take in the views back over Boston Bay to Port Lincoln. We opted only for the beach walk.

Another 7km of dirt road leads to more pretty bays, views and the Cape Donington Lighthouse. An unmanned structure it stands tall watching over the rocky entrance to Port Lincoln’s natural harbour which is 3½ times the size of Sydney Harbour!!

Port Lincoln was host to a large cruise ship the day we arrived. The town was heaving with tourists so we returned to our quiet camp ground at John Martin’s Caravan Repairs. He charges only $5 a night for an unpowered, site among the bushes on his extensive property.

Another day we ambled along the foreshore and through the town. There are a couple of statues for photo opportunities. I captured Matthew Flinders and his cat Trim, a tuna fisherman and Makybe Diva (3-time winner of the Melbourne Cup).

Fishing, seafood and wines are Port Lincoln’s claim to fame. And diving with sharks if you seek an adrenalin rush! I’d have considered a fishing trip if tuna had been in season but buying some more tackle was as fishy as we got here!

Stocked up on groceries, shopping and a tank full water from this RV Friendly town, we started northward up the east coast of the Eyre Peninsula.

The National Park at Coffin Bay has some amazing beaches and cliff views. There are a couple of islands off the coast adding to the rugged ambience. The road in is sealed unless you want to head down a few 4WD tracks to bays or strike further northwest. Animal life seems abundant: we saw roos rutting, emus stalking the beach, various gulls swirling, willy wagtails bouncing, various unidentifiable wrens or thrush type flighty birds flitting around, bobtails and plenty flies.

At Coffin Bay itself, we saw a few emus strolling along the coastal pathways and masked plovers striding along the tarmac roads.

We also had the delight of an Oyster Farm Tour. Really, it was just a wade out to a semi-submerged, floating pontoon next to the oyster beds. Balance carefully as you step over rocks and stones on the sea floor.

Learning to shuck fresh, live oysters and then taste this amazing delicacy was wonderful. Oysters Kilpatrick have, til now been my favoured preparation for these little creatures. I’m a new ‘au naturel’ convert!

A more expensive tour is available with a short boat trip but I would only recommend this on a fabulous warm, sunny day.

What a delightful and welcoming town Cummins is! It’s well positioned near the tip of the Eyre Peninsula and gives easy access for day trips to Coffin Bay, Port Lincoln and Tumby Bay. Of course, we arrived from the western beaches which are also readily accessible.

The town’s best kept secret is its caravan park. For $18 a night we had an unpowered site but access to water. We could fill up our tank or, because we were the only unpowered guests, hook up our hose for ‘running’ water. A shelter with free gas BBQ, a dish-washing sink, a small well stocked book library, a radio and some seating. The toilets were clean, showers hot and the washing machine free to use.

As I said, we arrived on a hot day. After setting up camp, we decided to walk into town to investigate all the informative caravan park host had told us. Be warned, on a hot day, it’s a little bit further than you might think!

The ‘world’s prettiest toilets’ at the kids play park were colourful with the art work adorning the walls. Some more sculptures, art works and memorabilia gave information on the area’s history.

The Five Loaves Bakery sold delicious bread made from the flour ground at the mill. The Mill offers tours if you wished and sells different styles of flour for home baking.

The local butcher, Cummins Meat Store, had a wide range of quality meats on offer and a board stating the farms it was sourced from.

The Home hardware store had buckets for sale which we were in need of after ours cracked and started leaking. The shop certainly seemed well stocked.

The Community Garden was blooming and lush. You are invited to help yourself to herbs or purchase a pot plant from the table at the side.

Various other stores cater for the local community, including a pharmacy, an Op Shop and a Mens’ Shed.

The Cummins Hotel was our last port of call and gave us a true sense of refreshment with its chilling air-conditioning and icy cold beer on tap. And so, we were pleasantly cooled down after our hot but interesting walk!

Continuing east and south from Ceduna, we popped into Smoky Bay and parked up overlooking the beach for a bacon butty brunch. Shame it wasn’t smoky bacon!

We had a stroll along the bay's shallows and I got my feet wet. Some brave souls were swimming too, further along the sandy and sea-weedy beach.

That night we free camped overlooking sheep fields and tree lines by the side of the road at Haslam (using Camp Australia 11 Book and Wikicamps) before driving on to Streaky Bay where we stayed at the Recreational Vehicle Park behind the sports centre. It was flat, grassy and had a couple of toilets and only cost $15 a night.

We took the time to explore the small town on foot and drove out to Cape Bauer and the Blowholes. The views were good when you saw the sea but much of this was just dirt road, scrub and farm land. The Blowholes made it worthwhile, though! What a racket one made and the wind and tides would have the power to do more in stronger weather.

We were told afterwards that the second loop Westwall Way Loop had more attractions. We decided to miss this as the rain was coming in and we didn’t fancy skidding along the dirt roads.

Having one night only at Streaky, our next attraction was the impressive Murphys Haystacks. These rocky lumps have been exposed from the dirt over the millennia by wind and rain. There were visible crops of stones than I expected and they were tall too.

We pulled in, when the rain started, at Hammock Camp a few kms south of Port Kenny and 2km north of the Venus Bay turn off. The wind howled and the rain showers fell through the night. By morning, the sun was trying to creep out from behind the clouds which meant we were glad to see Venus in full glory. The local pelicans certainly were enjoying the calm waters of this wide, expansive bay.

From the top of the cliff viewpoint, we could see the waves pounding against the foot of the point on the other side and marvel at how calm the waters were inside the bay itself.

We’ve learned that Matthew Flinders was very literal in most of his place names as mapped the coast of this ‘new’ continent. Smoky Bay where he saw smoke from the indigenous people’s camp fires, Streaky Bay for the pattern of weed and sand under the water. Matthew must have found Venus Bay a delightful welcome!

In retrospect, we should have stayed at Venus Bay and gone to the Talia caves the next day because as we approached, we decided once again that the dirt road to the coast was not worth risking the caravan.

We kept looking for decent camp spots as per the Camps 11 book but could not find any according to their location descriptions. We ended up in Elliston at a grand spot – The Golf Club.

Although we didn’t play any golf, we did enjoy sitting each evening tucked away in the corner of the club’s verandah, protected from the winds, and gazing out over the town to the historic jetty and the cliffs on the opposite side of the bay.

The next day, we followed the Clifftop Sculpture Trail along those cliffs to more amazing views and some interesting art works. I took selfies with several of these which you can see on my  Instagram account.

We were told at the tourist information centre and at the pub, that Sheringa Beach was a fisherman’s delight. Salmon are to be caught here. Indeed, the Australian Salmon Fishing Championships are held each year on the beaches surrounding Elliston, including Sheringa. With that local knowledge, we booked a night for only $20.

$20 well spent - eventually! After two hour-long sessions the first day without any bites, on our third attempt the next morning, fellow fishermen advised us to cast into the darker water. We’d been wary of getting hooks snagged in weed and on rocks, but listened.

Immediately, the salmon were interested. We caught three salmon in the space of half an hour! Big salmon, meaty salmon, tasty salmon and salmon worth a lot more than $20 at the fishmonger!

Gutting and descaling the fish on the beach was hot work in 35 degrees. Packing up the caravan to leave by midday even hotter work. Arriving at Cummins Caravan Park for a shower was most refreshing. More of Cummins next. 

We chose to head back down to the Victor Harbor area, having enjoyed our earlier brief stay, but selected Port Elliot Showgrounds (scroll down the page for booking contact) for our camping site.

The showground was filled with self-contained RVs, demonstrating that Port Elliott is a seaside town attracting Adelaide holidaymakers and, those like us, from further afield.

It was a very busy weekend when we were there. The streets were packed with pedestrians and cars were having difficulty finding parking spots. The local businesses would have been delighted as every café, bar and shop  we passed was buzzing.

The walk along the Harbourmaster’s Coastal Path was most enjoyable. The council are to be commended for a paved, looping trail to enable wheelchair users to access the beautiful views across the rocks, down into the bays and out to the Great Southern Ocean.

It’s easy to see how Horseshoe Bay, at the eastern end of the path, got its name. A popular bathing spot sheltered from prevailing winds and big surf.

A beautiful discovery was Lakala Reserve. Hidden in a residential area not far from the main streets, the park is filled with birdlife. The usual Purple Swamp Hens, Wood Ducks, Eurasian Coots and Silver Gulls are easy to spot. I was fortunate enough to spy an immature Nankeen Night Heron.

We had another wander around Victor Harbor and did some shopping there too. This visit, we had time to head to The Bluff and walk along Encounter Bay, another literally named bay by Flinders, a British Captain, on his discovery and mapping of Australia’s southern coast. He ‘encountered’ Commander Baudin, who was on a similar expedition for the French.

There are even more coastal walks to do in this area for those who can spend longer in the area.

Our Fleurieu Peninsula day trip, south of Adelaide, felt like one of those Sunday afternoon, car trips out with family as I grew up.

We left McLaren Vale and headed south, striking for Cape Jervois where the ferry takes foot passengers, cars, caravans and trucks across to Kangaroo Island, Australia’s native animal ark. The countryside heading there was rolling, golden brown and pleasant.

First stop was Normanville as a driver’s break. The beach is long, wide and when we were there, sunny. Folks were enjoying riding horses on the sand, admiring the view of arc of the bay, munching on brunch at the Surf Club café, swimming and fishing in the shallows, racing each other in a mini triathlon, strolling or sunbathing on the sand or walking out the jetty. It has a good feel and the main street in town has a few cafes for a bite to eat too.

Then, Cape Jervois. It’s a ferry terminal. Nothing else – a lighthouse and view to Kangaroo Island. Although Kangaroo Island has a great reputation, we decided the cost was more than we were happy to spend on this trip, at this time. Maybe in the future….

We turned back and hoped to explore Talisker Conservation Park. A wee hike, a picnic lunch, copper miners’ ruined buildings, a toilet stop birds….but the historic ruins trail was longer than were up to, the heat high, the trail not so clearly marked to picnic table or the toilets.

We sat on the ute’s tailgate, boiled the billy, had a wee behind a tree JUST AS a group of four walkers approached us.

They were locals and pointed us to the picnic table and chairs just 100 metres from us. Embarrassed!

If you go here, go prepared for a good hour or more walk to the ruins and follow the Cattle Yard track to the toilets, not the open clearing that looks like the walk trail! The views from the park are fabulous though!!

Next, we pulled into Second Valley. This is a tiny hamlet that thrives on fishing and holidaymakers. Being here on a Sunday in school summer holidays, it was packed! We didn’t stop but did declare this would be a lovely spot in quieter times.

Driving through the rock cuttings made for the road, provide amazing scenic views out to sea. And then you’re following the coast itself. Stop at the HMAS Hobart memorial for a bit of history and the scene out to one of its wrecks. It was deliberately sunk here to be a diving venue and a memorial.

Next, we skipped back through Normanville and took the scenic road to Myponga Reservoir lookout. Standing gazing down over the dam, the water and the to the treed hills we were struck by how alike this appeared to Scottish hydro dams and reservoirs. We only stopped for the view but there are several areas for water activities and hiking within the reservoir’s reserve.

We headed to Sellicks Beach, considered one of the Adelaide Beaches, for a milkshake from the general store. We sat above the beach sipping our tasty treat. This is such a pretty area with low, red cliffs to the south, a wide sweeping bay of sand and crystal blue waters. Yet, dismay filled us.

Why, oh why, do people have to drive onto beaches in their hundreds? The beach was turned from wonderful nature to a parking lot. Who in the right mind would actually enjoy sitting in a car park, even if it is close to the water? It can’t be safe for kids to play!

I think this is a sign of humans being lazy and wanting to spend the day at the beach with the comfort of fridges, toys, BBQs, shade under awnings and they can bring that with them to the beach. I ask, “What impact is this having on the wildlife and the condition of the beach itself?”

Finishing our drink, we headed back to the car and followed the beach car park for a few kilometres to Aldinga. The rules change, as does the coastal terrain there so no more beach parking seen.

We arrived for a relaxing walk along the footpath by Noarlunga to see the mouth of the Onkaparinga River. Time being short we journeyed back to the housesit at McLaren Vale thinking we’ll come back later when we return to Adelaide later in the year.

Another housesit, this time in the McLaren Vale area. And yes, we had checked out caravan access in person (see lesson from Adelaide Hills housesit).

This time, we were to care for a four-month-old Border Collie.

And we did! Though several times we had heart palpitations because the gorgeous puppy grew in confidence and curiosity over the two weeks we looked after her and the property was open to the road, the vineyards next door and the creek bed at the back of the block.

You can imagine the need to create distractions, the mad dash after her when a cyclist, kangaroo or parrot caught her interest!

We splurged a bit here, after all, this is wine country!

We chose four distinct vineyards for tastings from the smorgasbord of cellar doors open to the public.

Gemtree Wines drew us in due to its platter offering native foods and their biodynamic approach to wine making. Although the food was delicious it was more ‘locally grown or produced’ than native. The wine was excellent, especially the Obsidian Shiraz.  Both food and wines were indulged as we watched their alpacas paddling in the property’s wee dam.

Tinlins Wines’ roadside barrel caught our attention. This is a winery producing quality, low-cost wines for bulk markets but also sell to locals. We were local – sort of! Buy good wines and liqueurs by the bottle, litre, flagon or cask here.

One of us being a music buff, Woodstock Winery’s name appealed (think Woodstock Festival). We liked that we could taste and then buy a glass of our preferred wine to sip on at our leisure. It wasn’t busy mid-week but we drove past on the weekend and saw lots of families attracted to the wildlife sanctuary and the adventure play area.

Our final cellar door also offered more than wine. The Cube building at the D’Arenberg houses the tasting bar, a fancy restaurant, a small museum an exhibition of Salvador Dali’s sculptures and graphics. This was an entertaining visit with other displays in the grounds free of charge. It was a very popular cellar door too!

The town of McLaren Vale serves the winemaker and tourists with vintners needs and several cafes, bars, tasting rooms and restaurants. You can learn more of what’s on offer from the McLaren Vale Tourist Information Centre.

We toured out to the historic town of Willunga. Interesting architecture and history but a town now designed to tempt Adelaide’s wealthy weekenders to spend their money on antiques, fancy produce, lunches and coffees.

From McLaren Vale we also did a day tour down the Fleurieu Peninsula coast see separate blog for details on that.

We spent a day at Goolwa. Huberto the Coromal Caravan had a service to ensure he continues to tow safely and keep comfy. He also got that leaky window fixed!

Since we were there, the Goolwa Caravan Centre unfortunately burnt down. We really felt for the staff who were just superb. Hopefully, they get back up and running soon.

Goolwa is a River Port on the Murray River. It’s the first or the last depending  which way you travel!

So, seeing historic boats is to be expected and we admired both large, Oscar W, and small, Gladys, along the river banks.

The town has a wide tree lined main street with cafes, hotels, bakeries and other interesting shops.

We drove out to the Goolwa Barrage and did some bird watching and seal spotting. This is an excellent place for twitchers and tourists alike.

There are several barrages separating the Murray fresh waters from the salty Great Southern.

There is a lovely wide, sandy beach which reminded us of WA beaches though it was a bit cool and windy for a dip, in our opinion. We made do with a short hike up the sand dunes on a boardwalk to take in the views.

We had a quick catch up with a cousin and her young children in Victor Harbor. We stayed at the Adare Caravan Park in a powered site and they had a cabin. BUT the children loved exploring Huberto and tasting the caravan lifestyle with a BBQ and games. Lots of fun!

I had discovered the Victor Harbor Tramway (horse-drawn tram) runs from town over a bridge to Granite Island. We chose to walk across, explore and then tram it back to town.

I enjoyed reading about the history of the tram on the signs inside the tram itself. The children kept their eyes peeled for whales, seals and other marine life but it was only birds we spied.

We had a quick stroll along the river near the caravan park before saying farewell to family. We’ll catch up again later in the year.

And we may come back to this beautiful area but for now, we have a couple of housesits to keep us busy…..

There are several interesting stops, walks and camp sites within the Coorong National Park but we chose to break our southward journey to learn a bit more of the Gold Walk, at Chinaman’s Well.

The Coorong was first used by European pioneers as a stock route. By the 1850’s the Victoria Goldrush was in full swing. Hopeful migrants arrived from China into South Australia’s ports to avoid the immigration costs charged by the Victorian colony.

They trudged, rode or were conveyed in coaches along the Coorong to reach the goldfields. Taking their limited belongings with them. Many died on their way. Water and food was difficult to find along the route so some enterprising Chinese people developed rest areas along the route.

They may have had help from the local Aboriginal people to find water but they used their construction knowledge to quarry stone and build wells with lids, to clear land and grow crops and build eating houses.

This is one such site worthy of a stop to read the signage, view the well and some other building remains and to look for the quarry cuttings.

The loop walk is easy grade, meanders through scrubby woodland and has the possibility of spotting wombat, birds, emus, roos and of course, be wary of annoying snakes!

See the images on my Instagram account.

A few days’ work at Meningie Area School turned out to be lucky not only because of the money but meeting some fabulous staff and experiencing this gorgeous location on Lake Albert. Without the work, we would have continued southward.

The Lake Albert Caravan Park has unpowered sites for only $15 per night and you get a great view over the lake.

It’s a short walk into town and the good range of cafes and shops.

Along the town foreshore is a path with information signs and at the northern end an ostrich. “An ostrich?” I hear you query. Yes, an ostrich. This African bird was brought to South Australia for farming in the 1890’s.

We drove up to the lookout instead of walking the Lions’ Trail because it was a such a hot day. It did gives us a good view over the town and across the lake.

I took the camera to the wetlands behind the school early one morning. Unfortunately, due to the drought and the end of summer season, the wetlands were dry and only sparrows and pigeons were to be found.

I had better luck along the lake side. Pelicans, Great Egrets, Straw Necked Ibis, Purple Moor Hens and Magpie Larks galore.

On the weekend, we chose to drive around Lake Albert. It was a very pleasant drive through farmland, swamp lands and the coast. Highlights included Narrung, Raukkan and Long Point.

The ferry at Narrung crosses the Albert Passage, on one side Lake Alexandrina and the other Lake Albert. The Australia’s only inland lighthouse sits on the headland above this passage. The Point Malcolm Lighthouse warned the ships and boats plying these once busy waterways.  

I was so excited when I stopped for a toilet rest to discover one of my Instagram friends and my fellow traveller who was staying at Narrung’s free campsite by the jetty.

Monty and I took a photo in front of his fabulous big orange bus. We had a good chat, giggled over coincidence and swapped. You can see us on my Instagram account.

Next, we explored Raukkan which is a welcoming Indigenous community. The streets were quiet, as we visited on a Sunday perhaps, but the views across Lake Alexandrina back to Point Sturt and Milang, the quaint houses and the solid church all impressed. This is the church depicted on the $50 note which also has a portrait of David Uniapon who was a prominent member of the community and an inventor.

Nearing the end of our loop around Lake Albert, we stopped at Long Point inside the Coorong National Park. Although there was camping here, it was not as inviting as Pelican Point we here we had been earlier. The star attraction instead was the massive sea lion we saw lying on the posts under the jetty. He was snoozing and growled loudly when I approached, focussed on some birds at the far end. That was when I noticed him! I stepped back and he laid his head down to peacefully continue napping.

Finally, we passed a few bird-laden swamps and ponds to return to Meningie. A lovely Sunday afternoon drive.

You can pick up excellent printouts of this and other Coorong Road Trips giving excellent direction and information details from the Meningie Tourist Information Centre.

From Tintanara, we headed down to the coast and the Coorong National Park. There are several camping options within the park. We chose focus distance.

The Coorong is the area where two long lagoons lie, protected from the Great Southern Ocean by a narrow but tall bank of sand dunes named Younghusband Peninsula. This area runs about 140km the coast from Goolwa in the north to almost Kingston SE in the south.

The fresh water, estuarine and hyper saline ecosystem of wetlands are of international importance, yet the lagoons are struggling from lack of freshwater flow. Despite reducing numbers of native plants as a result, there is still much wildlife to be seen, including a myriad of birds.

Parnka Point creates the narrowest channel linking the two lagoons. The currents and wind can make being on or in the water dangerous here. But there are plenty other options to enjoy either side.

We walked a large proportion of the 5km Parnka Ngopung Trail along the shore. It was fun trying to identify some of the footprints and tracks left behind on the sticky sand.

A kangaroo or two also stayed still to be photographed. But it was the birds that I loved best: Australian Pelicans, Chestnut Teals, Red Necked Avocets, Shelducks, Honeyeaters of various varieties, Emus, Herons and more.

There are two camp areas at Parnka Point but there are several more within the National Park too. Check out the website for bookings.

Spending three nights in this idyl really allowed us to connect to nature and appreciate peace and quiet.

Intending to stay at Coomandook at one of the free overnight stops listed in our Camps Australiawide, we arrived and quickly moved on. The rest stop was so close to the side of the duke’s Highway, such a busy, truck laden main road. And Coomandook was not exactly a town!

Reassessing, we drove on to Coonalpyn and the surprisingly good Soldier’s Memorial Park. Our first time at a park that is free unless you want power. And power is paid by the night using a bank card reader machine at each site. Toilet and showers are freely available at the local swimming pool, right on your doorstep.

Although there is not a lot here, it’s worth strolling the streets and maybe popping into either the pub or the Waffles & Jaffles when open. Impressive are the silos. They have a huge mural all around it. Painted by Guido van Helten, this was the first silo art mural in South Australia and depicts some of the school children at the time of painting.

Tintinara is much the same size as Coonalpyn but has a school catering to the area. It also boasts a tourist information hub at the old railway station. Inside you can access the signal control room and see some of the control panels still in place.

There is a supermarket with a café for groceries and a snack but no pub or bottle shop, so make sure you take drink supplies if staying.

Lake Indawarra sits on the edge of Tintinara town, offering free camping for self-contained vehicles, though donations are suggested. There is a basic toilet and a cold outdoor shower. Swimming is allowed in the lake.

Around this park area there is a Disc Golf course. Throw your frisbee to cover the fairway and land it in the basket goal. Most holes were par three. I averaged eight throws!! Lots of fun to be had so long as your back and knees can cope with all the bending over to pick up your disc!

Langhorne Creek is another wine growing area in South Australia. The first winery in the area was set up by Frank Potts in 1850. This winery became Bleasdale Winery and still produces quality wines. A good reason to visit this winery amongst the many options available is to see the historic press.

The town is small but quaint. The old school and the old church have been repurposed to a community hub and residence respectively. The General Store caters to most of your needs.

The Hotel serves good food. It’s a happy place to be now but in 1882 it was full of sorrow.

The hotel owner’s three young daughters, under ten, drowned in the flooded creek nearby. Local boys heard their baby brother crying on the opposite bank. They ran home to report to their father who crossed the creek to rescue the baby. He recognised him as the hotelkeeper’s boy.

A search was created for the girls only for them to be found a few metres apart further downstream.  It was assumed one girl fell into the water whilst they played and the other two were pulled in trying to help her out.

Their gravestone now lies beside the road, and the creek they died in.

There are public toilets, a dump point and potable water behind the Memorial Hall. You can camp at Frank Potts’ Reserve, walking distance to town and Bleasdale’s, for a small donation and there’s a drop toilet there too.

On the western shores of Lake Alexandrina, we set up at the Milang Caravan Park for a reasonable $22 on an unpowered site with views across the lake.

It’s a massive fresh water lake covering 251 square miles. The wind, which we experienced, whips up the muddy water to resemble a sea. The Murray River flows through it on its way to the Great Southern Ocean.

The town acts as a play area for water lovers with a large parking area, several jetties and a wide grassed waterfront area. We noted swimmers, windsurfers, fishermen, boats launching, picnickers and walkers.

A walk trail alongside the wetlands and past the old railway station enables you to stretch your legs or go bird spotting.

The trail takes you past the Port Milang Historic Railway Museum which opens on the weekend. There are several carriages and a couple of engines near the old railway station building so something to see any day you visit.

Port Pirie is on the opposite coast to Whyalla across the Spencer Gulf.

Also on a flat plain, the silos and the smelter stack stand tall over the town. However, this town is attractive and buzzing in comparison to Whyalla.

We arrived on a Saturday afternoon to a very quiet town centre and could appreciate the architecture of a bygone era without busy traffic and parked vehicles.

The housing in Port Pirie is mostly from a bygone era too but so many are really well-maintained and very attractive. We played ‘Which house shall we buy?’ on more than one street!

Our first night, we stayed at the Federal Hotel, free camping for patrons, and got chatting to the publican and a couple of his regulars. This is an historic pub next to the Memorial Gardens which are prettily laid out for a gentle meander.

Then we moved to the CMCA RV Park behind the Port Football Club grounds. The kind caretaker encouraged us to become members to save money and we did. There are a handful of CMCA RV parks in each state and the number is slowly growing. You must be self-contained, you can access potable water, dump point and sometimes power.

This park is next to Coles in a small shopping complex, close to a Caravan and RV repair shop, Mitre 10 and just a few moments’ drive into the town centre and other attractions. Rates are excellent!

So too is the feed you can splurge on at the Port Football Club on a Thursday or Friday night. Book a table because it’s very popular! They do lunches weekdays as well.

The RSL Branch here have put together a superb museum. Very moving, highly informative, varied, representative of several conflicts and has several entertaining stories to tell. Give a generous donation if you can afford when you visit. You can see some of the displays that I found interesting on my Instagram account.

The beach is at Solomontown and is actually the river bank. It’s just been upgraded and is a pleasant stroll. The beach is made up of broken shell so I’d recommend wearing swim shoes. If you’ve got kids there is play equipment here, picnic tables and free BBQs and a skate park for kids both large and small.

The council is, at time of writing, creating paths around a small wetland area. We accessed it from behind the Aldi store. It’s not yet sign posted but looks like it’ll be a good walk and an easy place for bird watching in the near future.

It's worth dropping in to the Tourist Information Centre which doubles as the Arts Centre. I enjoyed the art gallery with paintings and photos depicting the area. We were lucky to be there on the afternoon they offered free access to their shark display, all about Shakka, the largest shark ever caught off South Australia. I also took advantage of a shark cage dive experience, well, sort of – it’s a virtual reality experience! The town library is attached too, if you need computer or WIFI access.

And I got more teaching here, too - check out the latest ‘Working on the Road’ blog about TRB Mutual Recognition: WA to SA.

Stunning views across hills, down gullies and across to the flat plain, in which the Murray River winds its way towards the south coast, welcome you into Mannum.

This small riverside town was once a bustling river port with steam paddle boats plying their trade up and down the Mighty Murray. Established in 1840 and in 1852 William Randell set up a ship building business.

The town has survived many floods including the 1956 biggest flood ever recorded. This was from three months of heavy rain in the Murray-Darling Basin followed by more large rainfalls in western Queensland. 5.1 metres above normal water levels was recorded. Amazingly, very few lives were lost, perhaps because they knew the floods were coming as the flood water took several months to flow from Wentworth in NSW through Victoria and into South Australia via Renmark, Mannum and Murray Bridge.

We took advantage of the normal water levels and cheap camping on the opposite shore opposite the townsite. Take the free ferry across as there are no bridges, so all traffic goes this way. Two ferries, side by side, ply across the river at Mannum and both pull themselves along the steel cables to ensure they do not drift downstream with the current.

Once across, there are two camp areas one to the right and one to the left of the ferry landing site. Check in at the right-hand area which has a toilet and a vending machine for your permits. You get similar views from the Caravan Park on the town side and you can access water and a dump point at the town sports grounds.

After setting up, and relaxing a while, we crossed back over to explore.

The main street has the usual mix of café’s, hotels, charity shops and hardware stores. It climbs uphill away from the river but you can drop down to a park area before the road heads out of town to see the Murray Princess.

It’s a beauty of a boat, a paddle boat, a cruise ship. One could almost imagine voyaging the Mississippi on this ship which sails for 3-5 nights upriver.

We opted for the smaller, charming, afternoon cruise on the oldest paddle wheeler in South Australia, the PW Mayflower. Volunteers man the boat and free teas and coffees keep you hydrated as the paddles pull you by the tree lined banks of the Murray. Tickets are purchased at the Mannum Dock Discovery Centre near the ferry crossing. The interesting museum includes the only remaining dry dock of its kind along this famous stretch of waterways.

See the river boat style of living, watch for carp jumping in the water and try spotting a bird of prey or two. And look out for the Canoe Tree, a tree with 300-year-old scarring from the traditional owners of the land, the Nganguruku people, cutting the bark for their fishing canoes.

A few days later, we headed downriver to Murray Bridge, so called because the first road bridge across the Murray was built here in 1879. The ‘new’ bridge for the railway was built in 1929! Both span the immediate flood plain and are an impressive sight.

There is a lot on offer to suit different interests, best to drop into the friendly Tourist Information Centre for more information.

Being keen on birdwatching, we headed out to Swanport Wetlands. There are a couple of bird hides and several hundred metres of boardwalks among the tall reeds and trees. You can do a loop walk around.

Then we drove back to the Riverglades Wetlands below the Avoca Dell Caravan Park. Unfortunately, the riverside wetland walk was closed due to riverbank water damage.

Next, we walked part of the Rocky Gully Wetlands on the northern edge of Murray Bridge hoping to see some Cisticolas, but had no luck.

Finally, we drove into Sturt Reserve, in town. The usual birdlife was present: pelicans, ducks, miner birds, fairy wrens, wattle birds. However, it was the Bunyip that drew us in and he growled as we approached his cave.

The Bunyip used to be a fisherman who was very greedy. He caught too many fish and wasted the river’s precious source of food. The ancient Elders of the Narringedjeri people, punished him. They turned him into a half man, half fish creature called the Mulyawonk and banished him to a cave away from others. The story of the Mulyawonk is used to warn children never to swim alone in the water and to heed the value of nature’s bounty by only taking what you need for survival.

Cost effective camping at the Show Grounds is available and a dump point and water near the old railway station.

And so, our introduction to this area of the Murray was one of walks, views, boats, birds, relaxation, inexpensive camping and both ancient more recent history.