Bags all packed and stowed into a taxi, we arrived at Edinburgh Airport full of excitement. There had been some debate about a new bag with wheels but costs won out the day, money to spend on other essentials, but wheels would have been preferred as there were no trolleys available at the drop-off point.

Never mind, muscle power between us coped until the check-in hall and a most cheerful staff member ensured our bags were weighed, labelled and ready to go. With boarding passes and cleared through security, it was time to celebrate with a glass of prosecco at the Sir Walter Scott Wetherspoons.

“Last call for Mr. Honey Bear. Please make your way to gate 15 immediately.” came the announcement – what had we been doing? We raced over and were the last on the plane, in very comfy seats and before we knew it, were in the air.

We watched Bonnie Scotland disappear with a wee tear in our eyes and then turned to focus on enjoying the journey. The staff on this leg to Doha were very efficient and friendly. The food delivered was of restaurant quality and the onboard entertainment was wide-ranging so we each had something to help fill the 7 hours.

We were surprised just how large Doha Airport is. It was a long walk to the main hall where a rather large, wooden creature depicted how tiring travel can be! My nephew texted to confirm which flights we were on to track us on flightradar24 and pinged back exclaiming our luck in getting on an Qatar A380 – the largest passenger plane in the world!

Well, it was certainly a big plane with a huge wingspan! And our seats were over the wing so no views outside – unless we looked at our individual entertainment screens and used the camera facility.

You wouldn’t guess there were 459 other passengers with you because the seats were cosy and spacious, the excellent staff service and lots of choice on the screen in front of you. We even managed to nod off a few times during the 11-hour flight.

Eventually, we landed, very smoothly, in Perth. We were most impressed with Qatar Airways, with their oneworld partners, delivering us safely and comfortably.

It was so easy getting through immigration and security control with most of it being electronic and finally, we were met by friends and whisked home for a long-awaited catch-up and a bed to lie flat in for the night.

This was a mighty trip for Hetty and Huberto! 350km north on dirt roads again (see Red Dust Galore blog under Vehicles).

We’d been past the Kennedy Ranges twice now, once getting there, once going to Mt Augustus and we’d spotted a picturesque overnight stop on the banks of the Lyons River, halfway to Mt Augustus.

This was to be the first pitch for this stretch.

Just past the Kennedy Ranges turnoff, we noticed lots of cow poo on the road, I mean, lots! Then, as we turned a corner, there they were. Hundreds of cows being driven along by horse and motorbike riders. The air was full of loud mooing.

Lyons River Station hands quickly checked in on us, apologising for the delay, it’d only take another 30-45 minutes to herd the cattle into the station pens – just up the hill and around another bend. But we didn’t mind – this is cattle country and we were seeing it working.

Finally, we sped on to our camp spot before dark settled.

Next morning, we set off again, new territory now, north towards Lyndon Station, Towera Station and up to a free camp on the North West Coastal Highway at Barradale.

As we crossed the cattle grid at the turnoff to the Lyndon Homestead, we noticed the blue painted tree that was mentioned on the Wool Wagon Pathway information pamphlet we had. A photo shoot!

Only to notice Hetty’s rear tyre was soft, indeed, softening and deflating before our very eyes until she was flat as a pancake. Not what we wanted in the middle of nowhere!

We recalled advice from our sand 4wd course (see earlier blog on Vehicles page), took a good glug of water and laid a plan of rescue.

As we worked on getting equipment out, a wee truck stopped and a Lizzy popped out to check on us. She assured us she’d stop again on her way back from the station pretty soon. By then, we’d got the jack out and I was under the car looking for the lifting position. Lizzy gave us a few tips, told us which UHF radio channel she and her colleagues were on if we needed help and set off.

“Team work is dream work,” a friend repeats frequently, and after an hour working together, we had the spare wheel on, the tyre pressures checked and were about to pack up when a larger truck stopped to see if we were ok.

How lovely that the only two vehicles we saw the whole day except for a third up close to the sealed road, stopped. Much like the rule of the sea, in the outback, you look out for fellow travellers. We’d like to thank both stations’ workers for their kindness and care.

It was a sigh of relief to reach the sealed road and only 5km to reach the Yannarie Rest Area. There was even phone signal to try and set up puncture repair appointment.

Then on, for another free camp and a pleasant stop at Robe River. We discovered there’s more to selecting sites than first meets the eye! Sun position- good, view onto river - excellent, shade for the fridge – reasonable, levelled out van – super, Corellas in gum tree above – fateful! And that is why there was lots of bird poo to clean off the solar when we finally reached Pannawonica.

Our trip to Carnarvon was all about food shopping and we intend to stay a day or two on our way back south. But we did want a few days along the coast and drove the 75km north to Quobba Blowholes camp area. No bookings, but you can pay on arrival by cash, by phone or online at the Carnarvon Visitor Centre website.

We were lucky to get a spot at this popular stop. Our site was protected from the sea winds by a small series of sand dunes. When we carried our chairs to the top, we could watch the sun set behind the vertical, spouting jets of sea water, forced through small channels in the rocks as the waves continually crashed into the land.

The wind increased the next day, so no sitting atop sand dunes and no vertical jets, simply huge sprays as the huge waves smashed against the rocks. No wonder there is a now Instagram famous sign stating “KING WAVES KILL.” You can see my cute photo under this sign on Instagram.

A second memorial for HMAS Sydney II in the form of a simple cairn, sitting on the rocks, with views to help you consider the magnitude of the loss, can be found just south of Quobba Station Homestead.

The drive into Gascoyne Junction from Murchison was ridgeback style, peppered with small bluffs on the sides, and there were grading works on the road. A final welcome back to tarmac for the last 20km or so made a relaxing arrival.

The town itself is small, laid out in a rectangle. It has the Upper Gascoyne Shire Offices with tourist information centre, library and museum in one section; the fuel station with café, shop, bar and caravan park in another; and the school overlooks the town oval and on to the ‘Pavilion’ where we learned local entertainment and events are held.

Everyone we spoke to was friendly and helpful, including the bush mechanic who looked at Huberto’s right wheel that had started making a grinding sound. Just a stone or some dust fortunately, and we now know how to help him if it happens again.

We had time here for a few more minor repairs to Huberto, some online, personal business and to get the laundry done. Sightseeing one day, we took the time to wander across the 2016-built bridge spanning the Gascoyne River and marvelled at the expanse of river bed and pools of water. Another afternoon, we sat by its banks sipping on a beer in the late afternoon, looking out for birdlife and any signs of fish.

The museum is a must! I was in awe at the colours of the stone and rock samples collected from Mooka. Mookaite is only found at Mooka Creek, just 40km out of town. The life form, silt and mineral deposits left here when once the ocean seabed have created ripples, patterns and deep, rich tones in the rock. Wishing we had time to get to Mooka, but our bookings further north meant we had to continue the next day, perhaps another time.

Finally, we farewelled Gascoyne Junction which we had used as a hub for our trips to the Kennedy Ranges, Mt Augustus (see previous blogs) and to Carnarvon’s supermarket and bottle shop. A good excuse for our short stay on the coast (see Quobba Blowholes Blog coming soon!).

Retracing footsteps, and then pushing beyond the Kennedy Ranges, we continued north, then turned east to Mt Augustus.

We left Huberto behind in Gascoyne Junction as the 650km round trip on dirt roads seemed a bit excessive after the minor repairs he required after the earlier trip to the ranges. Besides, we’d make better timing just Hetty and I.

The terrain morphed and changed in subtle ways as we sped along, noting the foliage and rocky soils change. Several creek crossings brought us to a pretty, riverside parking area just past the eastern turn off.

Now the road became jiggly, rough and bumpy. How often we exclaimed ‘Thank goodness Huberto’s not with us!’

Mountains seemed to loom out of the flat plains and bluffs along the sides of the roads. Which one was Mt Augustus – finally we knew which one, the massive one!

Suddenly, we were surprised by a 20km speed limit sign only to discover the Cobra Inn, now a private residence. This was a stop on the Kingsford Smith Mail Run between Meekathara and Carnarvon.

Kingsford Smith became famous for early flights including the first intrepid aerial crossing of the Pacific. But he must have learned determination in the 1920’s driving a truck across the clay pans, the dry sandy riverbeds and the rocky outcrops between Carnarvon, Meekathara and through here: the Bangemall Goldfields.

Another character to make it here was Bert Facey who wrote a famous memoir of ‘A Fortunate Life’ which I am currently reading. In 1909, he tried following a herd of stampeding cattle through a thunderstorm only to become lost. The local Wadjarri people found him, fed him and returned him to his fellow drovers.

Only 45km further along, we arrived at the base of the Mount. A track off the road led us to a vantage point and we awed at the scale of this, ‘The World’s Biggest Rock’ facing down on us.

We took a rest for lunch at the picturesque Cattle Pool before checking in at the Mt Augustus Tourist Park which is on and run by the Mt Augustus Station. We’d booked a twin room for the night and a twin room is exactly what we got, with ablutions and camp kitchen in the block next door.

That afternoon and the next day, we hiked the trails around the base of the rock. My wee legs were no match the 6 hour hike to the summit so we avoided that.

Historically, we were most impressed with the petroglyphs carved into some cliff faces by the Wadjarri ancestors. We pondered their meanings and wondered at their age.

Having built up an appetite we dug into a fabulous roast beef dinner at the restaurant and pub on the station that evening. The meat was divine, the station’s own shorthorn stock.

And so, we left only footprints but took away memories, photos and a frozen BBQ pack of meat. The Kennedy Ranges inspire through beauty but Mt Augustus inspires by scale and its geology.

Northwards from Gascoyne, the next section of road is so scenic.

First, we crossed the powerful Gascoyne River on the edge of town. A wide sandy riverbed spanned by a tall, single-track bridge. Imagining the river full of water is difficult, yet just ahead was a boat on the roof of a house indicating a flood level in 1980. Wow!

A little further along to the east are strange outcrops of rock, appearing like a series of big top tents with flat plateau tops. And then the Kennedy Ranges to the west dominate the skyline.

These were ‘discovered’ in 1858 by Frances Thomas Gregory who, in his report, stated that the best thing about the area was an absence of plants poisonous to stock herds that were prevalent elsewhere in the state.

And so, the pastoralists moved in. By the 1930’s overgrazing, drought and the Great Depression caused damage to the land that is still recovering today.

However, the Kennedy Ranges themselves have stood the testament of time despite slowly crumbling as rain, wind and water weave their merry dance.

Huge sections of the rockface, weakened by seams of dissoluble sediments are eventually too heavy to cling on. They crash and tumble down the steep scree slopes, smashing and cracking til they halt, gravity pulling them down into the softer earth or the cliff-face on the other side of the gorge blocks them.

This long-drawn out re-shaping of the landscape leaves us able to amaze at the coloured layers and shapes within the cliffs; to trek along the gorges to see evidence of waterfalls and pools, to clamber to the plateau and gaze over the terrain below.

If you are reasonably fit and enjoy a walk, this is a stunning National Park to stop at for a few days. The Park can be reached from Gascoyne Junction for a day trip, being only 60km away, but a stay at the campsite (no need to book ahead) gives you a chance to chat with other travellers and swap notes on destinations as you sit around the communal camp fire and watch the moon rise above Temple Gorge being where probably the best walks in our opinion are.

The photos on my Instagram account, do not give this magnificent place justice. As most people know, the human eye sees far more than the camera lens!

On leaving Perth in an eastward direction, the main road is called the Great Eastern Highway. It leads you directly to Coolgardie through smaller towns of varying interest. From Coolgardie, you can turn south-east to follow the Adelaide sign or continue on to Kalgoorlie-Boulder, known as the gold capital of Australia.

That golden heritage can be viewed, enacted, bought and sold. For more check out the Kalgoorlie Tourist Information Centre. There we bought our score card for the Nullarbor Links Golf Course – The Longest Golf Course in the World!

We stayed at the Discovery Park in Boulder just to do prep purchases for the longer stint eastward but we’ve been to ‘Kal’ many times before. So, our only touristy things were Mount Charlotte for the views across town, the Super Pit to see how much deeper and wider they’ve dug since our last trip and the golf course for the first two holes of our long game.

Kambalda next hole and then Widgiemooltha where the Tavern looked like a draw card for the locals. Lake Cowan is a good free camp and allows you to wander and take in a bit of the scale of this (usually) dry salt lake.

Norseman’s golf course looks onto Lake Cowan too – more expanse admiring! We started to get the idea of course conditions by now. As expected, dry, dusty, rocky and uneven with very fast synthetic greens.

Norseman (named after a horse!) is Western Australia’s start of the Eyre Highway (named after the famous explorer) and is a good point of last minute shopping, fuel and water needs.

Our first free camp was at Southern Hills and we snagged a great site overlooking another picturesque, red, dry lake.

After a slow start, we made it to the first of well-spaced roadhouses along the route. I have to agree with the fuel tip as you cross the Nullarbor – top up at each roadhouse which we did at Balladonia.

Balladonia is famous from an event in 1979. The Skylab is falling!

We did stop in athe tiny ‘museum’ before playing hole 5 beside the motel rooms. Long grass grew on this fairway with a narrow path laid bare by previous players. Keeping the ball on the path was the key to success. Caiguna Roadhouse came next after Australia’s longest stretch of straight road at 146.6km or better known as The 90 Mile Straight.

By the time we approached Cocklebiddy the temperature was soaring to 35 degrees! So, we played our third hole for the day before stopping the night at Olwolgin Bluff.

Pleasantly surprised by how much phone connection there is nowadays, we could see that strong winds were forecast the next day. We opted to stay put an extra day in this pretty area and I snapped beautiful images of Budgerigars. See them on my Instagram  page.

Madura is positioned in very picturesque environment. You drive down off the Hampton Tablelands onto the Roe Plains below. Awed by the vista but humoured by the golf hole, I giggled!

The road to the car park cut the fairway in half. We had to cross the road to reach the green. The parking signage wasn’t excellent and we thanked a young couple who moved their car away after our first shot. Just as well, because the second shot would have hit their car!

Mundrabilla fairway reminded us that we are playing in a wilderness. I went to collect a stary ball from under a bush and jumped back quick – SNAKE!!! Only to relax when I realised it was the skin a snake had shed and left behind. Bear certainly went on higher alert though!

We stopped for lunch with a view at Eucla and took the time to head down and explore the old telegraph station and jetty. The sand dunes keep moving and the station and the station master’s house disappear from time to time – all that is left of a once sizeable hamlet.

Eucla has it’s own golf course a good few kilometres down a dirt road. The course sits alongside the sports ground which appears to have a large playing field – larger than a footy oval or a cricket ground surrounded by what we supposed was a horse racing track, some rifle shooting targets and a donga style club house.

Not so far on, we crossed into South Australia and played Border Village’s  hole 13. It’s a really short hole but bushes are a menace if you don’t hit straight. Unlucky for some!

That night we stopped at one of the Bunda Cliffs camp areas. It was cold and cloudy now with a fresh wind off the sea and drizzle in the air so views, such as they were, were largely enjoyed from inside the van.

More laughter at the Nullarbor Roadhouse because the fairway this time was split in two by a live runway!!!!! I’ve seen golf courses with roads laid through them but never a runway!

One MUST pull into the Head of the Bight! A real landmark for Australians and a whale spotting mecca in season. We were out of season unfortunately but the weather had cleared up enough to give us great views.

We camped at Whitewell Tank before returning to the Eyre Highway, inside the fences and wondered what we were being protected from or more likely was being protected from us travellers!

Another hole of golf was played at Nundroo and then we detoured for a couple of nights as Fowler’s Bay. This is actually where the explorer Edward John Eyre set off with his Aboriginal companion Wylie, to traverse the Nullarbor to the West and all the way to Albany.

Fowlers Bay is a tiny holiday paradise for fishermen. Off the jetty the longest squid can easily be caught and various fish may be hooked. Know your catch size and bag limits which are displayed at the jetty. A beautiful green Wrasse decided our bait was tasty – and so became a tasty dinner too! Whilst fiddling with the line we were stunned to watch the largest ray I have ever seen glide under us and out to deeper water on the other side of the jetty. It was at least as large as Hetty the Ranger’s bonnet, if not larger.

The sand dunes are at work in Fowlers Bay too. Parts of the town have been submerged, last seen in the 1970s. They loom above the town making a good spot for landscape photography. Perhaps one day the township will be like the telegraph station at Eucla.

Approaching Penong one can spot the odd windmill the town is famous for but I think many have now been gathered at the town’s museum. It’s free, next to the caravan park and quite impressive. The most impressive is the Comet Windmill which it is claimed, is the biggest in Australia.

The golf hole is just behind the museum and a good clear fairway.

Finally, we passed through quarantine 2km out of Ceduna. Only a few potatoes we hadn’t used to hand in. It’s very important to be honest about any fruit or vegetables you are taking east beyond Ceduna or west past Border Village to protect the farming crops and harvests each side of the Nullarbor. No pest allowed! Bears, yes!

We played the penultimate hole and the 18th hole at Ceduna’s golf course. It seems a well-kept course if still dry and rough but at least the grass is kept short. The fairways are wide and long and unusually, the greens are black. A black sand or ash is used instead of synthetic grass.

With the 1365km game of golf played, the score card filled with stamps (each road house or tourist information centre along the route will stamp your card) we collected my certificate.

Proudly, we celebrated with a slap-up meal at Ceduna’s Foreshore Hotel, attached to the Foreshore Caravan Park where we slept well, listening to the sea lap on the sandy shore.

Hopetoun - One of my favourite places in Western Australia, indeed the world.

This small settlement on the southeastern coast of WA is a gem, lying on the edge of the Fitzgerald River National Park and within the Fitzgerald Biosphere.

Many travellers will miss this locale, as they keep to National Route 1, but they miss a fantastic geographical and relaxing area. In my opinion, Hopetoun rivals Esperance.

The bays and beaches are simply stunning with soft, powdery white sands, turquoise lagoons, wide open inlets and sharp rocks that break the rolling waves and create clifftop viewpoints.

The town beach, tucked to the west of the jetty provides a calm swimming spot protected from the prevailing winds and is attractive to dolphins chasing herring. A free chance to swim with dolphins! I’ve seen large rays swimming in the shallows along the sweeping bay out towards the National Park too.

Heading east from town the sealed road takes you as far as 12 Mile Beach but continues on towards Munglinup. A bit closer to town and just a few metres past 5 Mile Beach is another small parking spot on the brow of a hill on the seaward side of the road. We stopped there for a picnic lunch and admired the views out to the Great Southern Ocean and inland to Jerdacuttup Lakes. 2 Mile Beach is pretty, too but I suggest busy in good weather and peak tourist season.

The National Park itself boast over 100 species of flora that can only be found here and the birdlife loves it. I saw Wattlebirds, White Eyes, Honeyeaters, Fantails, Red-Capped Parrots, Eagles and, if you are lucky, you may spot a Malleefowl or at least it’s nest.

A few hiking trails are marked out for you to take it all in. The two we chose this time were the short walk up to the Hammersely Inlet Lookout and the more challenging climb up East Mount Barren.  

There are various camping sites within the Park or you can pitch up at the Hopetoun Beachside Caravan Park, tucked away under the trees and bushes behind the sand dunes leading to a pristine, sweeping bay. Hopetoun is an RV Friendly Town with free 48hr sites available for self-contained vehicles on a first come first served basis. They too are right behind the beach sand dunes on the east side of town. Alternatively, Wave Crest Village  just 5km north of town has a pool, a bar and bistro and powered sites. Being away from the immediate coast, it is also away from the strongest of winds - most of the time.

The town boasts a fabulous wee bakery, The Shipwreck Gourmet Bakery. We enjoyed the dark rye bread very much. There are a couple of cafes, the hotel, the general store and an IGA supermarket. Two fuel stations and a car/caravan washing bay means you’ve got most of what you need to hand before or after exploring the pristine environment.

See my Instagram account for the scenic, flower and bird photography opportunities I took.

I should say the Western edge of the Park can also be accessed from Bremer Bay. However, Hopetoun holds my heart!

What an interesting and sizeable town Katanning is. By chance, we had recently watched ABC’s Back Roads episode on this ‘supertown.’ It lived up to expectations.

Katanning was primarily and still is an agricultural town. Frederick Henry Piesse was founder of the town and being an ambitious man went into politics and was even Deputy Premier of WA for a brief moment. The town, indeed area, has reminders of him from the statue in front of the railway station to his business name of buildings and to street and hamlet names.

In the 1970’s, Coco Malays settled in the area. The locals warmly welcomed them and the fresh life they brought into town. Over time, other migrants arrived seeking a better life, among them Caron, Thai, Vietnamese and Islanders. The town now claims over 50 different language group representatives. Each has made an impact in town with authentic cafes and restaurants celebrating the cuisine and catering for the local community.

There are several festivals and events held in Katanning throughout the year, to find out more visit the Katanning Hub website.

Albany is an historic town, one of the first European settlements in Western Australia. It lies on the inner King George Sound coast, a natural deep-water harbour. From the hills surrounding the harbour, the views are amazing.

A must-do is a visit to the National Anzac Centre within the Princess Royal Fortress on Mount Clarence. You can wander around the fortress and look out to sea, imagining the ANZAC soldiers last views of Australia as they set of for WWI and the shores of Gallipoli.

Inside the Anzac Centre you’ll be given a character to follow around and see how they personally fared during the war, alongside the wider history of the battles, skirmishes, politics and epidemics of that period. You’ll be hard pressed to come away dry eyed!

Higher up, near the summit of Mount Clarence, sits the Desert Mounted Corps Memorial. From the car park a long flight of steps through the bush and trees you pause to read quotes from those who served in Egypt, Palestine and Syria during WWI.

Albert Facey has been quoted here too – we keep following in his footsteps!!

There’s so much to do in and around Albany. It’s best to pop into the visitor centre for more information.

This time, we were in town only to meet up with a friend. We spent the morning shopping and a quick sight-seeing drive before lunch. Our friend recommended The Three Anchors Restaurant overlooking Middleton Beach Bay. It proved popular and noisy but with fish and chips that were indeed tasty.

The caravan parks in Albany are so expensive during school holidays. The free/cheap sites around could not promise us a site for our fixed date so, we opted to stay 50km north in Mount Barker for half the price.

Mount Barker is a small town geared towards the local agriculture and the tourism that goes with being close to the Porongorups and the Mount Barker Wineries.

We meandered the streets popping into various galleries and gift shops. The most impressive is Sobrane’s Gallery. She does amazing large-scale murals on buildings and silos as well more traditional canvas paintings. Most of her work is of Australia’s flora and fauna as far as we could tell, in bright bold colours. Beautiful!

Elsewhere through the town are murals painted by 'Walldogs' with local residents support that depict the history and geography of the area. Most informative and an easy morning walk.

I took the time to explore the Old Police Station Museum  enjoying the available information mid week. The museum is only open at weekends but you can walk around the buildings to see the outdoor displays at other times. 

The town’s Country Bakery is very popular and we had one of their tasty ancient grains loaf. The butcher, Plantagenet Meats was fantastic! We spent more than we should have but the quality and range enticed us. These and the Super IGA will fulfill any grocery shopping you require.

Just a stroll along the Albany Highway from the Mount Barker Caravan Park, we stopped to taste wines at the Plantagenet Cellar doors. A great location for campers and caravanners and excellent wines!!

Leaving behind the heat that followed us down from Marble Bar to Geraldton, we were pleased for the cool change when we arrived at Lake Indoon, near Eneabba.

The wind swept across the lake into our camp spot. In the early evenings we found ourselves retreating inside, as the wind is tiring, but sitting looking out the window at the scenic view until dark.

It is 5km around this little lake. We started walking clockwise from the day use area one morning. We had fun kicking the natural foam being formed along the shore by the wind-created waves. Just over half way around we were forced to retrace our footsteps. There was stream barring our way, just too wide to jump over and too soft sand to wade through. We walked 6.8km instead of 5km and appreciated the cup of tea on return to Huberto, the caravan.

I did the walk round the anti-clockwise direction on my own in the afternoon despite being buffeted by the breeze. So that was a good day of exercise completed!

We had admired wildflowers on the stretch down to Lake Indoon but did not stop because we thought there would be a good display at the lake. Sadly not. The wildflower season was coming to an end.

From Lake Indoon, we cut across to Leeman on the coast and followed the Indian Ocean Drive back to Tuart Reserve, one of several free camps in the Shire of Dandaragan. More appreciation of wildflowers as we whizzed by.

Another sense of first chapter of the travels closing. This was where we had our first night on the road back in June. The flies were crazy here and we made good use of the fly nets over hats.

We set up camp, caught up with diaries and blogs and enjoyed some time reading. When we woke in the morning, we slowly packed up and then drove into Cervantes to treat ourselves to a meal at the Lobster Shack. We skipped the tour this time round.

And finally, we arrived back at friends in Woodridge to a warm welcome.

A whole week to spend in Geraldton! A few days’ work and a few days strolling along the foreshore and accessing ‘big town’ facilities.

Geraldton’s newly laid out foreshore is a big improvement. Previously, the railway ran along the front between city and sea. This has been rerouted and landscaping turned once good yards and sidings into a beautiful waterside frontage.

We enjoyed a milkshake overlooking Champion Bay at the local Dome café but there are a couple for other options for a drink or bite to eat with a view. Skeeta’s at the lovely Batavia Coast Marina is one, which we popped into and you can read my food review here.

We were very impressed with the Museum of Geraldton, another improvement to the town. We learned more about the shipwreck Batavia and the mutiny thereafter. There were good exhibits of pastoral influences and changes to the existing culture and environment that still impact the area today. A little bit like a Cinderella scenario, the museum was neither too big nor too small but just right for a couple of hours visit.

As well as the supermarket and fuel station, we made good use of the car wash facilities. Hetty was still pock-marked red with dust inside and out despite an earlier wash in Karratha. We had tried to wipe clean common touch points on her so she really looked messed up. By the time we finished at the Sun City Auto Spa, used the new vacuum purchased at Bunnings (see the vacuum blog on my vehicles page) and used a damp cloth on her interior, Hetty was gleaming again.

Geraldton Caravan Park offers 7 nights for the price of 6 and we had enjoyed our time here before so we booked an unpowered site for the whole week. The facilities are clean, the small pool enticing on hot days, the staff friendly and free Wi-Fi access from the camp kitchen.

Yes, we were in The Shire of Murchison when at Ballinyoo Bridge, but truly felt like arriving in the Shire when we drove into the tiny Murchison Settlement, the largest settlement in the Shire, thus ‘The Shire With No Town’.

For such a small place we were delighted to discover a botanical garden walk. Stones labelled with the names of the native plants took us on 1km tour. There were rest points where we could stop and sit on benches created from wire-encased rocks from the region topped with wooden slats and a notice explaining the type of rocks: granite, quartz, basalt and serpentine.

There is a museum here too with a varied collection of machinery and tools used in the wool industry by the settling pastoralists as well as some of their household belongings. Most amazing to me was the wooden wagon used well into the mid-20th Century to carry bales of wool along tracks between the Mullewa and Carnarvon areas.

One day, we took a drive out to Errabiddy Bluff, about 12km from The Settlement. It’s a good example of a ‘broad rounded cliff’ and is named after the local Wajarri language word meaning ‘mouth of bucked teeth.’ What a great description!

I scrambled to the top through large boulders, deadwood, shrubs and bushes, and smaller stones and rocks. Hetty looked so small as I looked down on her from above, being careful to stay away from the very edge. I savoured the views over the flat scrubland we had traversed and were planning to.

We had had a lovely warm welcome from the new managers at the Roadhouse Oasis and Caravan Park. They took over only the week before we arrived and have big plans in place already. Just a note that there is no potable water in the Settlement so make sure you bring your own drinking water, or buy it at the Roadhouse shop. There is water for washing dishes, laudry and for hot showers though.

Leaving The Settlement, we headed into Bilung Pool. A permanent waterhole for native animals and birdlife and taken advantage of by the drovers and their herds. You can read more about all these places from The Shire of Murchison website.

On a final note, I have particular reason to enjoy a visit to this large Shire as it is named after a dignitary from my home area, Sir Roderick Murchison, a renowned scientist who presided over the Royal British Geological Society. Murchison was named after him in 1839 by Lieutenant George Grey an explorer of North West Australia. At least 14 other places on Earth and a crater on the Moon are also named after Sir Roderick Murchison. In my hometown of Dingwall, the Parish Church, St Clements, has an historic Aisle (Chapel) in which there are marble plaques commemorating the Murchison family.

Heading north along the Mullewa-Carnarvon Road, we paused at Ballinyoo Bridge on the recommendation of friends. It was a brilliant recommendation and we wished we had more than the 3 nights we had.

This is the upper reaches of the Murchison River and the ‘old’ bridge was the second oldest concrete bridge to be built in Western Australia, back in 1929/30. It was replaced as recently as 2015 but a section has been preserved for all to see by the side of the road.

Being in the Camp Book, and so highly recommended, we expected the free site to be busy. But when we arrived, we were the only campers.

We snagged the best spot, overlooking a sandbank, across the water and, as we discovered that evening, a large nest in a tall gum tree on the opposite bank for two nesting Black Breasted Kites who entertained us with their screeching calls, their mating and their effortless wheeling in the air. This was their territory!

One or two other campers came and went over the next few days but with a wide, open space and bends in the river, we felt we had an idyllic retreat all to ourselves. We enjoyed bird watching, strolling along the banks and paddling in the cool water at the edge of the sandbank.

At night, we cooked over the campfire and stared up into the starry, night skies, miles from urban light pollution.

No need for the Hetty, the Ford Ranger, to take us anywhere so we left Huberto, the caravan, attached, making pitching camp as easy as possible.

This obviously confused a cow! On our last night, I was woken by sounds of plodding and heavy breathing. The van rocked a little. I listened carefully and then banged on the side of the van. Noises stopped. Then the plodding receded slightly. I braved it to look out the window and there she was, a huge-looking specimen, silhouetted against the moonlit sky as she meandered away down the track.

In the morning, her hoof prints showed she’d tried to step between Hetty and Huberto, had knocked over our raised campfire, had brushed with the camp table and snapped off the kangaroo whistles from the front of Hetty. What an experience for her trying to reach the fresh water in the river. No wonder she left a trail of muck by the campfire!

You can tell we would love to come back by the number of photos taken in only 3 days! See some of them on Instagram .

With personal business to complete in Geraldton, the Midwest regional capital, we headed into a much-upgraded city, at least on the surface.

We took two nights at the Belair Caravan Park right out on the western point and next to the beach. This made a great sunset beer spot after a lot of paperwork and computing.

The obligatory grocery shopping was done too.

But this trip, the highlight was heading up in the evening to the HMAS Sydney II memorial. We had been before, in daylight, but have to recommend an after-dark viewing too. Yes, you can see it lit up from the town below nevertheless, at night it is so prettily lit up and the sparkling lights of the town below glisten against the darkened Indian Ocean.

Then we drove the 50 or so kilometres southeast to Ellendale Pool.

Wow!

Had we visited before?? One of us thought so, the other not so sure. How could you forget such a glorious wee spot?

It reminded us of Glen Helen in the West McDonnell Ranges in the Northern Territories but on a smaller scale.

The pool water calmly flows past the high cliffs they have formed over millennia. The sunsets were fabulous against this backdrop and the walks along the river ‘pool’ were delightful, if short.

This campsite is advertised as paid. We were fortunate as the honesty box was officially closed, the site was free for up to 5 nights, and we stayed all 5 nights happily drinking in the peaceful ambiance and the orange evening glow on the cliff face.

Ellendale Pool has a long history stretching back into the Dreamtime and stories of Bimarra. Then, arrived the early pastoralists and on to more modern authors. All this information is gleaned from informative panels at the site.

You may swim, though there are warnings of amoebic meningoencephalitis if the water temperature exceeds 26 degrees Centigrade. Canoeing or kayaking is also feasible. There are picnic tables and free gas BBQs as well.

After this relaxing time, we returned to Geraldton to finish our personal business, buy some Rock Tamers and a 12V fridge/freezer, which will be more blog posts to come.

Another traveller mentioned the Horizon Sculpture, also known as The Big Marble, on the foreshore. It is an interesting stop as you stroll along by the water.

We found the foreshore was a recent facelift and a welcome one. It gives locals and tourists an easy stroll, jog, skate…etc.. along the seafront to take in the views.

We like this area, a great place to be! Take a look at Instagram to see my photos.

Inland 80km from Dongara, along the Midlands Road lies the little farming community of Mingenew. This was cattle country but now, we saw mostly wheatfields. The history is recorded in iron art work as you enter the townsite and by the Drovers Rest Picnic area on the edge of the settlement.

We enjoyed an excellent coffee at the local bakery. They had a good range of breads, pies and sandwiches too.

On return to the car, we stopped outside the old Post Office. The building is a good example of simple, strong and attractive public building of its era, turn of the 20th Century. The writing at its doorway explained the arrival of post, telegraph and telephone to this little town, connecting it to the main regional town of Geraldton and the wider world.

Half an hour drive north of town, through flat farmland saw us arrive at Coalseam Conservation Park, a place for wildflower hunting in season.

The River Irwin winds its way through this area on its way to Dongara and the Indian Ocean. Over the millennia, the river has cut through the hard laterite crust and worn away the softer sandstone to form a deep, wide gorge. You can see black coal deposits along the river bed that the miners tried to dig out in the mid-1800’s. There wasn’t enough to make it financially viable and mining was short lived.

There are two camp areas within the park bookable through the ParkStay website. We stayed at Miner’s Camp and enjoyed the Plateau Loop walk trail noting the kangaroo tracks left on the soft, sandy path. We drove up to the Irwin Lookout for more fabulous views and were lucky to watch a Wedge Tailed Eagle soar above the gorge and being chased away by smaller birds from their nesting territory.

Our first river crossing in the Ranger towing the caravan was videoed for posterity. And we farewelled the Park continuing northward through flat farmland again. 

Mullewa is a wee town catering for early pastoralists, explorers and gold hunters. It is used by tourists as a base for seeing wildflowers and caters for the farming community.

We headed just to the eastern edge of town to the historic Mass Rock. The local priest in the 1920’s and 30’s wanted to include and convert the Indigenous community into the Catholic Church. Realising they did not want to come to the town church, he chipped an alter table into a large rock near their encampment. The alter is obviously cared for to this day, as there were flowers and a wooden cross placed there.

We finished our first trip to Mullewa at Tenindewa Pioneer Well free campsite 22km west of the town. After a detour for business into Geraldton, we intend to return to the area on the way north and stay at Wilroy Reserve and then Ballinyoo Bridge. All three sites we found from our Camps Australiawide  book 11 and cross-referenced with WikiCamps app.

Whilst housesitting in Cardup, see blog, we came across the quaint timber milling townsite of Jarrahdale, high up in the Perth Hills.

We used this as a base for my contracted teaching role nearby (read about 2024 Teaching contract here). Jarrahdale offers a free 72hr RV Parking area with both potable water and a dump point. Given two consecutive days of work each week, the RV spot provided the three nights we needed to be in the area. Then, short four-night trips away and alongside some housesitting and staying with friends we continued to travel and explore.

The town is rightly proud of its timber industry history.  The streets are lined with small wooden homes that housed the workers. They are quickly snapped up if they come to the real estate market. Most retain their exterior charm despite some modernisation.

The old church and post office greet you as you enter the town and their car park gives easy access to the Heritage Trail. A short way in, sits the old manager’s house – a delightful, Australian-style wooden bungalow with shade-decked verandas all around it.

If you are interested in birdlife, the walk provides ample opportunities to spot a wide variety of natives among the bush, along the brook and in the tall trees. Red-Winged Fairy Wrens, Western Rosellas and Red-Tailed Cockatoos are imprinted in my mind visually and vocally!

Opposite the church is Necessiteas, a shop selling a range of teas from around the globe and tea paraphernalia. The shop is filled with bright clothing and soft, home furnishings.

Further uphill, the Jarrahdale Tavern offers good meals and a welcoming atmosphere whether on a balmy day in the beer garden or on a cold evening by the wood-fired stove.

Continue up again and the PO Kitchen has quality meals. We indulged in a full-cooked breakfast one morning and an Asian noodle salad another lunchtime. This and Old General Store are both popular refreshment stops for the motorcycle groups that like to ride the twist and bends of the hills area.

A bauxite mine was established in 1963 on the edge of town but has since closed and the site regenerated. Early attempts to restore the forest taught the importance of national companies understanding the flora of local areas. WA does not have the same trees as the NSW gums they tried planting!

Further native rehabilitation has since been taking place and the native fauna and birdlife are returning.

Amongst these new trees and undergrowth, a labyrinth of mountain bike trails has been laid out at Langford Park. You can walk along these but be wary of speedy cyclists. There are a few additional, safer, walk trails too.

Nearby to Jarrahdale, is the Serpentine Dam and the Serpentine National Park where there are even more walks and the beautiful Serpentine Falls.

All in all, we loved our stay at Jarrahdale. Each week we discovered something new about the location and recommend it as a base for RV tourists to Perth, Perth Hills, Rockingham and Mandurah areas.

Gold! At least, that’s what is mined here in the biggest gold-producing mine in Australia, as I write. It claims to beat the scale of the Kalgoorlie Super Pit but since COVID the tours at Boddington mine no longer run.

The town itself is very pleasant. We stayed in the free 48hr RV stop overlooking a shallow stretch of the Hotham River. Toilets and water taps are available a walk across the town oval in the old school buildings, now a Community Resource Centre.

I was impressed with the architecture of the main bridge over the river as you approach town from the north but it’s from under the bridge on a walk trail that you get a sense of the craftsmanship using local timbers that went into its construction.

Further along the trail, you come across Ranford Pool. There used be a tanning factory here and the river was deepened. Now, it’s a popular swimming spot for locals and visitors alike.

For those of you with children, they would be delighted to spend time on the extensive play area by the Visitor Centre. Plenty to climb on and a brilliant bike park to test their cycling skills. Meanwhile, you can enjoy a coffee or light meal at the café decking which overlooks the play area. And, afterwards, spend a few minutes in the interpretive centre to learn more of the area’s history.

Boddington is decorated with many pieces of street art. Take a look at my Instagram images of my favourites. We didn’t but should have checked if there were more at the Rodeo grounds. Yes! You read right! Boddington hosts the largest rodeo in Western Australia each November.

From Boddington we drove on to Quindanning. The Church is a must see in this tiny farming hamlet. The Quindanning Hotel offers free camping to those who spend a few dollars in the bar restaurant and includes toilets and hot showers. The car park is large enough for a few rigs. It was built in the same era as the Yanchep Inn and has similar architectural and decorative elements, trying to emulate the style of dark, wooden Old English Inns.  The grounds are very well kept and when we visited full of colour, floral aromas and plenty of seating.

We did spend a few dollars on a delicious meal, which you can read my review of on my Food Page, enjoying a shady nook in the gardens.

From our housesit in Rockingham, we explored this coastal city more than ever before.

It’s a city built for cars, as you pretty much need to have a car to get around. Although TransPerth runs buses out to the foreshore and a few shopping centre areas from the train station, where you can jump onboard to Perth CBD or south to Mandurah.

I did that one evening just before Christmas to see the lovely city lights, (see the photos on Instagram) and another day to catch up with friends.

For visitors and locals alike, there are several trails to take in the fabulous views off the coast and around the lakes.

The Foreshore itself is impressive with the colours of the yellow sand and changing shades of blue water as it deepens looking over to Garden Island, a naval base. Plaques are set into the path giving interesting details of past notable residents in the area and purple, electric scooters, available for hire through an app on your phone, dash along the walkway.

Here, families can sit under the shade of the trees and shelters having picnics, BBQs and playing games. Swimmers can step off the beach to wash sand and salt off under the free outdoor showers. Because the water is very shallow, for quite a distance, it’s a safe, calm place for children to frolic.

On the other side of the road are cafes, restaurants, take-a-way shops and various small businesses. We enjoyed a tasty couple of curries at Spices on Ocean. At the south end of the promenade is a pedestrian area leading to the jetty and a few classy restaurants and bars where you could stop to have a meal, cold drink or both and watch the local youths jumping off the jetty and people pulling up their fishing catch. 

Cape Peron lies just to the south and looks out towards Shoalwater Islands Marine Park. It has a range of small bays and beaches to take a dip or start a snorkel or dive from to explore the reefs just offshore. You can climb the steps to the WWII gun lookout and peek out the narrow windows.

A pathway hugs the coast all the way along Warnbro Sound and if driving there are a few small car parks dotted along the route, toilets and cafes.

The geography at Rockingham is ancient dunes formed and trapping sea water. Remnant lakes still exist. We walked around Lake Richmond, an easy 3km trail. There’s wildlife to see here. Thankfully, no snakes slithered past us as we walked but we did admire a squadron of pelicans sailplaning high in the sky and gently splashing onto the water’s surface. We spotted an osprey, heard the black shouldered kites and watched black swans and coots gliding along in groups. The best vista point is up on the viewing platform at the North/Eastern end of the lake, up two sets of stairs.

There is more to do in this southern end of the Perth’s metropolitan corridor and if and when we get to it later, I’ll be sure to let you know. 

Cardup is a semi-rural suburb on the edges of Perth, 30 minutes inland from Rockingham and 40 minutes to the CBD.

This was our home for six weeks. Yes, six! We arranged a housesit through Mindahome Australia. The owners were heading East, needing pet carers for two dogs and twelve chickens. We were looking for a base in the metro area to build up some finances for the summer holiday season and to arrange and pay for a caravan service. A win-win for all involved.

The house was lovely and the grounds were an open 2 acres, mainly grassed. The dogs were delightful. One was a Great Dane who turned out to be a big softie and lived up to the nickname of ‘oversized lap dog.’ We loved taking her for walks around the perimeter of the property. Meanwhile, the other, a Boston Terrier, kept taking shortcuts, perhaps because he was both aged and had short legs.

I picked up work at local schools a few days most weeks and kept some days free to relax, roam the nearby area and care for the property.

Gardening was the ‘hobby’ here to pass the time as I cleared the overgrown vegetable patch ready for the owner’s return to put in fresh plants. Catching up on a couple of drama series released since we left TV land was a bonus. Then there was the opportunity to bake and prepare custards desserts to make use of the dozens of eggs collected each week (see the food blog ‘Eggs Galore!’ for a great Vietnamese crème caramel recipe). A little weight returned as a result!

We knew Rockingham a little as friends live near there and we utilised some businesses in the industrial areas. We revisited the expanded King Road Brewery enjoying their beer garden and brew. One day, we explored Serpentine Falls which are a pretty sight on a hot day and has cultural significance for the traditional land owners. Another day, we checked out the Serpentine Dam and the quaint settlement at Jarrahdale. Both were refreshing stops. We also discovered the nearby township of Byford, a booming suburb with works in progress for the train line extension from Armadale and it became our grocery shopping destination.

If you like walking, there a few pleasant tracks in the wooded areas in this region. One morning, we followed the Cardup Brook Trail that winds along the banks of the stream. Dappled shade, lush brook bed and dry banks to the north side of the path and large, impressive properties to the eastern side. Of course, the Serpentine National Park has trails aplenty too.

Despite enjoying our time in Cardup, six weeks can feel a long time to be stationary and tied to the needs of pets for those of us who are used to journeying. We think 3-4 weeks is enough time to re-coup, re-organise and re-set.

However, we have now moved into another housesit, in Rockingham itself, for the busy festive season to allow the Perth locals enjoy the annual exodus to the South West before we venture down there.

We will definitely be ready to be on the road again by the New Year!

Western Australia has many fabulous National Parks and one of the closest to Perth City is Yanchep National Park only 50km north of the city centre.

Here you can take one of several walks and hikes of varying degrees and explore some caves. Our favourite is the 45-minute walk around Loch McNess. It, and the McNess House Visitor Centre, were developed as a resort area from a bequest following the death of Charles McNess (find out more about this WA businessman and philanthropist at wikipedia) not anything to do with Loch Ness in Scotland!!

We’ve visited this beauty spot over the years on our own and with local and visiting friends and family. It even has a public golf course we used to play on but you have to watch out for the kangaroos chewing grass along the fairways!

There are free gas BBQs and open spaces for picnics but again due to kangaroo presence taking a lined picnic rug is a good idea to avoid sitting on kangaroo poo that lies all around. If you don’t want to face that, the Chocolate Drops café or the Yanchep Inn can provide tasty food and drinks and you can choose indoor or outdoor seating. Listen out for the kookaburras and keep an eye open for flocks of screeching White Corellas.

The water table has dropped significantly since we first started visiting and the Loch’s water has receded, allowing bullrushes to flourish and the frogs to become more vocal. No longer can we hire a wee rowing boat to paddle about on the cool water on a hot summer's day. This visit made us stop to consider how the ever-expanding Perth suburbs are drawing on precious underground water resources.

This Park has excellent camping facilities: hot showers, toilets, water (that needs to be boiled before use) and a basic, clean camp kitchen. It poured rain the first evening we stayed so we were glad to be parked up on a bitumen site though the grassed ones look more attractive in dry weather. A small fee is charged and booking is essential through the ParkStay website.

What a start to the first morning! Our friend took us down to Cottesloe Beach, the end of Granton Street, to dip into the fabulously blue Indian Ocean. The blue was offset by the red and yellow flags of the Cottesloe Surf Life Savers. The sand was white, soft and fine. The water was azure, cool and gentle. The skies were clear, sunny and warming. The swimsuit was old, decaying and falling apart. But the swim was excellent!

Next, was a short hike around Monument Hill Park for 360-degree views to river, hills, city, the ocean and a stunning sunset.

The following day, saw us meandering along the banks of Swan River’s Freshwater Bay which was just the ticket after a long-haul flight and managing a few administration jobs. Words cannot convey the satisfaction of seeing once again a beloved scene – except the multistorey blocks of flats scarring a remembered skyline.

About 80kms east of Karijini access road, you turn onto the Great Northern Highway, the longest stretch of highway in Australia. It runs from the outskirts of Perth all the way to Wyndham in the far north west of the state.

We turned right, heading southwards. Our first stop was at the Mount Robinson Rest Area. An area with a pleasant view at the base of the mountain. I did climb a little way up, simply for exercise after sitting in the car all morning, and admired the rolling hills to the west when my eyes caught movement in an opposite valley - another train carrying minerals of some sort, likely iron ore.

Next day, we stopped at Newman, yes, a mining town again. It has grown and matured since we were last here. The caravan park has moved and is new. It is ‘unmanned’ with bookings online, a boom gate with an access code and coded facilities too. We spoke to the friendly gardener who was complaining that the booking website kept allotting caravans to the grassed sites and the grass was perishing as a result. What a dichotomy he had – damaged grass to keep alive and weeds along the graded sites to keep clear. At least it meant there was permanent work for him!

Newman’s shopping area has doubled or tripled in size too. More choice, more enticement to spend money. We kept to our supermarket shopping list but did splurge a bit at the bottle shop because this was the first place since leaving Geraldton where there were no restrictions in place on the days we had wanted to purchase alcohol. Restrictions are put in place by the Shires for longer periods of time or by the police for a few days if there are alcohol-related, inappropriate behaviours or the likelihood of such. We also got used to showing our drivers' licences at the bottle shops north of Geraldton – a bit like being asked to prove you are of legal age!!

I took a trek up to visit the large sculpture of Stan and Ella Hilditch. These prospectors first discovered iron ore in the Mt Newman area. They stand above the town pointing out the ore deposits. See me with them on my Instagram page.

There are several things for tourists to explore in and around the town but having been before, we decided to keep this visit a quick one. With laundry washed and dried, fridge and freezer restocked and a couple of bottles of wine under the bed, we headed off again.

A world class National Park, popular with local West Australian, interstate and international tourists. Words don’t paint detail adequately and photos do not do enough justice for Karijini National Park, but you’ll get an idea of the grand scale and majesty of this area from Instagram.

This park is renowned for its accessible and stunning gorges. Progress makes access easier over time. Many of the roads in the park are now sealed, to our surprise, and the last one due for tarmacking within the next year. Just as well because that road is currently very heavily corrugated and we decided the long road round was a better option this time.

We’ve been twice before to the park and selected two gorges to revisit: Joffre and Dales. At the former there are steep ladders leading down into the gorge floor and the latter a much easier staircase. Both these structures were new since our last visit and made the trail so much more enjoyable. At both gorges we could also swim, marvel at the rock formations, the power of water and giggle over the echoes bouncing off the high walls.

At Dales Gorge, the Fortescue Falls were still running into a shallow pool. A short walk through the lush greenery fed by the permanent water, reminding us of tropical Asia, takes you to Fern Pool. This is an idyllic, shaded, deep pool with another small waterfall you can swim up to and sit under to admire the ferns that grow along the gorge walls.

We also meandered along the rim trail atop Dales Gorge to peer over the edge at the securely fenced lookouts to Three Ways and down into Circular Pool, currently closed due to rockfalls.

There are more gorges to visit, especially the more adventurous of you! You can get all the information needed at the Visitor’s Centre, a beautifully designed piece of architecture that sits well in the landscape.

Dingoes prowl here and we heard them at night howling. Watch for your shoes as there were examples at the camp hosts’ cabin showing what the dingoes could do to them. There were also warning signs informing you of what to do if you ever meet a dingo. Fortunately, we didn’t!

There are two options for staying within the park. One at Dales Camp Ground, the other at the Eco Resort. Being popular, I highly recommend booking up either in advance.

Two national parks, Millstream and Chichester, were amalgamated into one in 1982 and has been on our bucket list for some time. While at Pannawonica, we misinterpreted a closure within the park of the Wetlands Area as being the whole park was closed. So, it was with delight in Karratha visitor centre to discover the park was indeed open.

Arriving after a pleasant drive south, following the Rio Tinto railway tracks and being amazed by the length of the trains travelling on it, we pitched up at our camp in full sun. This was great for the solar power system but hard on us sitting under the awning in hot 42 degrees sun and wind.

This made several swims at Deep Reach (Dreamtime story typed up below) on the Fortescue River an absolute joy and godsend. The cool water also calmed my burning and itchy sandfly bites to manageable levels (see earlier blog Karratha and surrounds – Cleaverville)!

The water was ever so deep, so deep we don’t know how deep! The banks were steep and filled with water reeds and lined with Sandy Gums and the local, native Palms. Access to the water was provided by two sets of stainless-steel steps for everyone’s safety. Such a picturesque spot for a cool down.

Early one morning, we took the trail up to the Cliff Tip Lookout for fabulous views over the river’s valley and into one of the areas the water flows above ground at this time of year.

The campsite was very well cared for with a great camp kitchen. There, we met Ranger Dan who chatted with us over the benefits of outdoors living and working with the landscape in remote areas as compared to the mining industry jobs in remote places. We congratulated him on his care and he was quick to praise the camp hosts who volunteer in national parks across Western Australia and, in particular, the few he had had recently helping him give the Spinifex bushes a haircut! Find out about volunteering from the National Parks website.

As always for WA’s national parks, bookings for camping at Millstream Chichester National Park are essential and can be made at Park Stay.

Check out my photos from the park on my Instagram page.

Barrimirndi, How the Rainbow Serpent Created the Fortescue River: Long ago, a sea serpent, Barrimirndi, became angry with two boys at Millstream who had cooked and eaten Gurdarnkurdarn, a mulga parrot, which was forbidden. The rainbow serpent smelt the singed feathers of the burnt bird and came out from the sea travelling inland.

He made a trench in the land, cutting it in half, creating Yandanyirra, the Fortescue River. Along the way he made many waterholes. Travelling underground he would rise to the surface checking he scent and looking for the boys. Each time he rose he dug out a waterhole before underground.

He cut open Bargumarrinha, Palm Pool, then went near Jirndawurrunha – where Millstream Homestead is – making a pool. He returned underground to where the red ochre edge is and made a pool in the red ochre.

Here at Nhakangunha, Deep Reach, he got the boys. He took them on top of a whirlwind and swallowed them.

This land had no water before he got the two boys and swallowed them. Just before he did, the people cried and cried and using a stick, tried to get into the serpent to get the boys out but they couldn’t reach. They returned to their camp by the river bed crying out, a big crowd of them. That was too much for the serpent, so he buried them in a flood of water. Finished! He’s in the water now, which fills the trench.

Yindjibarndi call it yinda. Copied, respectfully, from the public signs at Deep Reach Pool.

Another town largely revolving around mining and now tourism as part of the Warlu Way. With three caravan parks, we chose the cheapest one (AAOK Caravan Park) in the industrial area, Karratha gives travellers a chance to pick up work if needed, to shop at sizeable stores as well as top up on fuel.

Our choice of caravan park was a good one as it had free-to-use washing machines and was only a 5 minute walk to the North West Brewing Co where, after trying a few brews, returned on the Friday night to indulge in a jug of beer, a serve of chips and a platter of HOT spicy chicken wings.

Dampier is only a short drive from Karratha and we enjoyed a pleasant swim at the town beach, marvelled at the big ships in the port, gazed across the water to the islands of the Dampier Archipelago and said hello to the famous Red Dog from the movie of the same name. Based on a true story of a dog that roamed the Pilbara in the 1970’s, possibly looking for his owner who had died, and making friends along the way.

We stayed at two beach camps either side of Karratha. The first at 40 Mile Beach was most pleasant and we caught a sea bream for dinner on the camp fire. The other, Cleaverville, was spectacular for views and the rock colours but the sandflies (midges) were ferocious. I counted over 100 bites when they started to appear 12 hours after suffering a cloud of them despite applying Bushman DEET Repellent  lotion and long loose clothing. To be fair, most bites probably happened in the early morning cloud we woke to not the evening before so repellent an covered clothing is still the way to go.

From Cleaverville, we had a day trip to Cossack, an interesting historic pearling community that faded away as prices dropped. The stone buildings still remain and some have been restored for tourism purposes. The colour of the water from the jetty was simply stunning as you looked across to the mangroves.

A quick stop at Point Samson for a cooling dip in the water was most welcome before heading back to the rocky shores of Cleaverville and packing up ready for more planned National Parks visits.

Taking the tent out for a second trip, we tried our luck at Doolena Gorge on the Coongan River, on the road towards Port Hedland. It was fine but most likely far more impressive if it when it holds more water.

So, we tried to find Coongan Long Pool on the opposite side of the road. We missed the gate and chose to turn east to Coppins Gap.

Despite a rough graded road that t slowly disintegrated into a basic dirt track, we were delighted arriving at the Gap. You can watch the gap widen as you approach from the south and, parking the car to walk on, marvel at the rock formations just a score of metres apart and the clear running water creating a mix of deep and shallow pools between them.

We were lucky to identify a new-to-us bird species at this geographical point: the Crimson Finch. 

Hetty towed Huberto about 70kms east of Marble Bar on a lovely, sealed road to Meentheena Veteran’s Retreat. We bumped our way, along a dirt track road, to be made most welcome by camp hosts. A place for veterans but open to everyone with toilets, showers, a fabulous camp kitchen and a washing machine all run off solar power and minimal generators.

Lots on offer considering the location – Paper Bark River for a welcome shady dip in cool, slow running river and a loan of a canoe to paddle up and down the shallow waterway; Rocky Pool to relax, paddle and sit on rubber rings after a dusty, 30 minute 4-wheel drive trek; and ‘Blair’s Gorge where engravings on the rock both ancient and more modern (1930s and 40s) can be viewed before swimming across to the other walls of the gorge. Most wonderful is the camp host takes you to the further locations in the camp’s Landcruiser allowing you to take in the scenery and be guided safely to these wonderful attractions on the property.

A further 70 kms along sealed but not so well maintained (potted) road brought us to the Carawine Gorge turn off. This graded/dirt road was pretty rough and we were so glad we kept Huberto safe at Meentheena and engaged our new 3-man tent into action. Especially when the dirt road led onto a wide shale expanse by the riverside and 4WD was needed for Hetty.

We were fortunate to get a camp spot with trees on both east and west side to provide shade for most of the day. After sweltering in the midday heat, we braved the waterweeds to splash in the refreshing waters under a magnificent orange-red cliff opposite.

Others brought kayaks and small boats to tour up and down this stretch of permanent water and some of those were fishing too. We never saw them catch anything but we did spot plenty small fish close to the shore and a few larger ones jumping in the deeper expanses.

The sky at night was entertaining as we spied several satellites and it became a game who would notice the next small light streak across the sky. 

The hottest town in Australia – officially! This, for us, was a must experience place, even if we arrived in winter/early spring. And yes, it was hot. Our average temperatures were in the mid to high 30°Cs and over! No wonder this was the first place in Australia to run air-conditioning!

It’s a picturesque and dramatic landscape the town lies in, light green to yellow covered ribbons of red, stoney hills. The oldest residence is a quaint verandaed villa and the magnificent, old government buildings established in the 1890’s still stands proud as an example of the architecture at that time, on a hillside overlooking the town centre. The museum and visitor centre is here, alongside the police station and government buildings. We discovered that Kingsford Smith, whom we had come across in the Gascoyne region, was married here and settled for a time on a pastoral claim out of town.

We headed 8km out of town to the Comet Goldmine Museum housed in the old managers’ residence. A lovely prospector, the caretaker, showed us around the range of stones on sale and even some of his golden finds from that morning and we viewed the array of photos and memorabilia.

Next stop was the Flying Fox lookout which turned out to be a river depth measuring system hanging high across a dry wide gully. A wire rope was dotted with bouys and we were amazed at how deep the water could run at this point. We returned another evening for a sunset drink and watched the shadows play across the hills and valleys.

Number 3 stop was at the public Jasper Fossicking area. Marble Bar gets its name from the stone deposits around that ripple with jasper. Not sure if we found any jasper but we found some pretty stones!

Then for jaw dropping rock formations at Marble Bar Pool. Words don’t describe it and photos don’t do it justice and water makes it glisten and glow. Just a short drive away lies Chinaman’s Pool, so called after the Chinese pioneers who set up a market garden on the flat banks.

The notorious Ironclad Hotel built in 1890’s is now a quieter venue than in its hey-day but is still a pleasant spot for a cold beer at the end of a hot day. 

“Australia’s largest bulk export port,” Port Hedland is 1628km north of Perth. And the industrial infrastructure lets you know it too.

There are huge salt pans and big conveyor belts pumping shiny white salt into pyramid style mountains, massive warehouses, cranes and ships at the harbour, road trains galore on wide, well-designed roads with several fly-over bridge to allow the smooth running of some of the longest trains in the world. The longest on record was run by Australian BHP Iron Ore at more than 7km long!

I saw these mega-long trains, heard them day and night but didn’t capture an image worthy of publishing on my Instagram page. You can see mining equipment and ships if you follow the link above though!

We stayed at the town’s free campground for self-contained vehicles at the Turf Club. This is a great spot only a short walk to the ‘promenade’ and take in the sea (and shipping) views. One evening, we strolled to the Hedland Hotel for a tasty plate of fish and chips washed down with a glass of cold white wine. Lovely! The sunset watched from our outdoor table was stunning that night: a big, round, orange ball dropping behind palm trees into the harbour behind.

We didn’t stay long here, just restocked the necessaries and moved along for the next adventures.

Pannawonica is a good short stop when travelling the Pilbara but you can only stay a maximum of 3 nights at the Tourist Transit Park, which must be booked online and has only 4 sites. We were pleased to get a free laundry wash done after a few days of free camping and that big adventure (see Gascoyne Junction to Pannawona blog above).

Pannawonica (don’t you love the name!) is a small mining-town with facilities to match. You can swim in the free-to-use heated pool. If you’re there on a Friday night there’s a free outdoor cinema. Essentials can be bought at the expensive supermarket. There are three choices to eat out: the Tavern and Bistro, the Sports Club or the Miners’ Mess. We chose the Mess for a buffet meal of three courses and a cup of coffee. Good value for $14 each!

We broke our journey south to the Margaret River Region at Brunswick Junction which is a quiet, wee town about 14km inland from Australind and Bunbury. It was and still is a dairy area showcased by the number of tin cows dotted around the streets. The transit park is free but you do need to book online and there are even public toilets a short walk across the showgrounds.

Leaving Margaret River, we headed east and skirted a large fire burning in the Millbrook National Park Forest. The heavy plumes of black smoke filled the skies to our left. The atmosphere was quite eerie and some trepidation set in. Was this a safe route? But those driving in the opposite direction gave no sign of care or worry, no notices or road closures appeared and so we finally arrived in Nannup.

Nannup is famous for its arts, in particular its music festival held each March. Having been here before we stopped long enough for a stretch of the legs along the wide main street and for lunch.

We intended to stay at a free camp between Nannup and Balingup but drove past without sighting it although we did enjoy the scenery – the driver missed much of this too as he had to concentrate on the very narrow winding road up and down dales following the route of the Heggerty Creek. We ended up in the picturesque township of Balingup at the transit park, right by the river on the edge of the town. You can book online or at the visitor information centre.

We got up the next day refreshed and ready to be tourists. First, we walked out to the Old Cheese Factory, pausing to read the information signs at significant places on the town’s walk heritage walk trail such as the Post Office, where we discovered a sixteen-year-old boy used to ride from Bunbury delivering post in the area, a distance more than 120km.

Next, we sampled the delicious liquors at The Famous Balingup Fruit Port Winery. The owner, behind the bar, cheerfully explained the process and from where she sourced the local fruits. I chose the dark plum ‘port’ to take away for another time.

I spied the Tinderbox shop, sparkling in bright purple décor and realised this was where my friend had got the tasty Herbal Sprinkles from that I liked in my sandwiches (see blog It's a Wrap! under food).

Time to move on towards our final camp, Thomson Brook Winery near Donnybrook. They offer free camping for self-contained vehicles in return for some trade at the cellar door. Pam welcomed us warmly and provided descriptions for the range of wines on offer and we picked a few for tasting. The Merlot and the Cabernet Sauvignon were to our taste but we were most impressed with both the red and white ‘ports.’

Staying a couple of nights, we took advantage of the proximity to visit Gnomesville. A quirky, fascinating, and probably the silliest place we have travelled to get to and yet, I loved it! I made friends – take a look at my Instagram posts to see how many!! There is evidence here that people have travelled miles to add a gnome to this amazing site which has made it onto some international TV travel shows.

And then we had to return to Perth metro for business for a few days. Part 2 of our travels seems brief and over, for now…...

Our camp of choice in the famous wine growing region of Margaret River was Jarrahdene, in the Jarrah and Marri forest at Boranup. It’s a National Parks campground with bush toilets and a camp kitchen.

Despite enjoying the shade from the hot sun on several very hot days, we also worried a little about our solar power. Th trees were tall and close together – beautiful to look at but not for solar dependency! We made our first good use of the mobile panel a friend had prepared for us before leaving back in June. By keeping it moving into the pools of sunlight, we were able to top up the battery to almost full each day.

A bonus is an interesting trail with information boards around the old timber mill site which used to function here. Particularly impressive is the set of iron hoops representing a King Jarrah that was processed at the mill. It had fallen naturally rather than being logged and the hoops depict its girth before being sliced up into logs. It must truly have been an awesome sight standing tall and wide in the woodlands. Although there are few trees left anywhere near its girth now in these ancient forests due to historic logging, the good news is new laws introduced in January 2024, mean no more legal logging of Western Australia’s native timbers can occur. Perhaps in a few hundred years the forests you see now, might have many more trees matching this King Jarrah’s girth.

Margaret River town has all your grocery needs, a couple of fuel stations and drinking water stations to top up your bottles. There are various cafes and bars to quench thirst and abate hunger as well as tourist and craft shops. The park by the river on the edge of town is a beautiful picnic spot and has play equipment for the kids to run off some energy.

The best bet is to drop into the friendly Tourist Information Office in the town’s main street to seek what adventures suit you as there is a plethora of wineries, provedores, breweries, galleries and tourist attractions from mazes to soccer golf to climbing adventures all to be found in the Margaret River Region.

What we did discover is that most of those are to the north of the town and we spent a little more than expected on fuel to get around, and we didn’t stray too far! Keep fuel in mind when you book accommodation is therefore my obvious advice.

However, we did enjoy the Cheeky Monkey Brewery in its pretty setting and for its paddle of tasting beers. Our old favourite, Olio Bello for olives and oil tasting, is still going strong and has a lovely outdoor café/restaurant now attached. And we tried out the new Pies and Ales for lunch one day. The pies are devine! Full recommendation to drop in here before or after you step into the famous Boranup Gallery to awe at the quality, style and cost of the artisan furniture and maybe pick up a small sculpture or painting or other wonderful craft item.

Margaret River Region is also well known for its natural environment and the sports that its coast inspires.

A day out to Augusta gives you the opportunity to stroll along the calm waters of the Hardy Inlet, a beautiful location for a quiet picnic. Just a little closer to the ocean and the Blackwood River mouth you may be lucky enough to stand in amazement of the skills on display by kite surfers and wind boarders.

The town itself sits atop the hill overlooking the inlet and if you really want to relax in comfort to take in the views the hotel bar and beer garden is a great place to go.

Taking a further coastal drive west from Augusta, you arrive at the Cape Leeuwin Lighthouse. Now in an enclosed area you have to pay to enter for a close-up view of the lighthouse, take a tour and/or for exercise climb to the top!. The famous signpost for photographing yourself standing where the Indian and Great Southern Oceans meet is in here too, though you can take in the impressive views of the waves crashing together from various positions on the Cape. The glass encased café

The beaches in the Margaret River Region are stunning too. They attract elite sports people and competitions. We stopped by at Prevelly, Contos and South Beach but there are many more to explore.

We finally left our beautiful campground reminded of all that makes Margaret River a fantastic region to visit, except this time for the wines…but why that is, read the next blog!

Greenhills feels like a long-forgotten town, now a townsite with 3 houses and a grand old Inn. It was the free camping and the excellent online reviews of the Greenhills Inn that drew us here and we did enjoy the campsite and the food.

You can take a walk through the townsite reading the signs telling you what used to be here, like the town oval and school that is now a paddock or the blacksmiths that has been earmarked by a corrugated iron roof – no walls, just the roof!

We did discover Bert Facey and his ‘A Fortunate Life’ (a book we enjoyed and mentioned in earlier blogs) continues to follow us! The picturesque cottage on the main street was used as the police station in the telemovie of the book.

Chatting with a local farmer at the bar, he explained he was the third of four generations to frequent the hotel trying to ensure the business stayed in town. “Otherwise,” he said, “It’s a long way to York for a beer!”

But for us, it was on to York though not necessarily for the beer.

York is an interesting and historically important town in Western Australia. The architecture from early wealthy days has been retained with various businesses trying to tempt the weekend visitors from Perth as well as serve the local community.

The free RV site in York is easy to find and in a great location. It’s on the banks of the Avon River next to the York Croquet Club, where a match was underway when we arrived.

Our first impression was the distinct increase in noise compared to the silence of Greenhills. Not because York is a buzzing metropolis of cars, people and business or even the cheers from the croquet game, but because of the number of birds living on and beside the water. So much squawking, quacking and screeching!

Included in our viewing were spoonbills, egrets, herons, coots, three duck varieties and a zillion white corellas.

We enjoyed York but Greenhills was our favourite spot on this route back into Metro Perth Area.

We had a lovely day out from Woodridge with friends to one of our favourite towns near Perth – Toodyay sitting along the banks of the Avon River.

Lucky for me I got to travel in the side car and what a treat that was attached to a glorious Royal Enfield. First time for me in a sidecar and in splendid scenery through rolling hills a rich golden colour, as the wheat harvest had begun, and through Julimar forest, past small farm holdings and their mini dams. See my video on Instagram.

Toodyay used to be called Newcastle and has been known since a flood and rebuilding by a derivative of the local Aboriginal name Duidgee. The Mill at the Visitor Centre is worth paying to take a look inside. Opposite that is the famous Coca Cola Café which is a very popular quenching spot for motorcycle groups having the day out. It’s for sale too for anyone wanting to try out a new business adventure!

There are several other heritage buildings in town still functioning in one form or another. I giggled at the windows of the Christmas 360 shop which is open all year round and doing excellent business.

The old gaol is an interesting place too. And you cannot come to Toodyay withour being introduced to the infamous Moondyne Joe, a convict, an escape artist and scoundrel. There’s a festival remembering him and his times on the first Sunday in May each year. Read more about him here.

We had planned on lunch at the Freemason’s Hotel, recalling fantastic steaks, but it was closed, presumably for renovations because our second option was the Victoria Hotel which has been refurbished to a very high standard.

I really enjoyed meeting two young locals, Joeys, at the pub. They were soft, gentle and inquisitive, wee fellows. See me with them on Instagram too.

The food was all excellent too: fish and chips, garlic prawns, salt and pepper squid and creamy chicken carbonara. Not all mine I hasten to add. We were a group of 5.

If you get to Perth, take a day trip out to this historic town only 90km from the city.

Named after a ship wrecked on the island just off the coast from the townsite in 1844, Cervantes is only 200km north of Perth. Originally and still a fisherman’s town, it’s also now a touristy town and for good reason.

Nearby is Nambung National Park and the Pinnacles made famous by Billy Connolly’s nude dancing around the limestone pillars which the wind and weather have left standing in the yellow sand like sentinels. It’s an amazing place we’ve been to many times, though we didn’t drop in on this occasion.

On the outskirts of town, there is an easy, flat walk around Lake Thetis to view Stromatolites. They are micro-organisms which resemble some of the oldest living creatures on earth and look like mushrooms of rock. Interpretative signs explain more as you stroll by the shore.

If you continue just past the turn off into the Lake Thetis car park, on a dirt track towards the beach, take the turn-off to the right and climb steps to appreciate the wide, sweeping views across Hansen Bay.

A friend fully recommends the Lobster Shack where you can taste succulent Western Australian crayfish and more. Drive north along Catalonia Street to their car park, saunter past the large, new houses or amble along the sandy beach to get there.

The RAC Caravan Park offers excellent facilities for all weather. The outdoor pool is heated and we watched the steam lift off it as we cooked our dinner in the well-equipped and spacious camp kitchen.

For those seeking simpler camping head east from Cervantes towards the farming town of Badgingarra and stop at Tuarts Reserve Rest Area. A peaceful and free 3-night stopover is possible here, listening to the birds sing and dart among the magnificent trees.

About 80km north of Perth, on the coast, is the little seaside village of Guilderton. The Moor River meets the sea here and for much of the year it is held back by a sandbank that breaches after winter rains and flushes out the brown, tannin-filled waters into the blue ocean.

The area surrounding Guilderton has been the homeland of the Yued people for thousands of years with the townsite gazetted in 1951. It was named after the Dutch ‘guilder’ coins found here following a shipwreck further up the coast. You can find out more about the history from the local visitor's website.  

Guilderton is a popular day trip out for Perthites with lots of recreational options. Sand dunes on the bank opposite the townsite give ample opportunity for sandboarding and can be accessed by kayaking or swimming. There are several free BBQs and a large grassed area with picnic benches dotted around. The shallow waters are ideal for young families and fishing off the beach attracts all ages.

There are cruises up the river, when the water levels allow. We enjoyed a twilight cruise with a glass of wine and listened to the informative captain/guide explain some of the history and environmental information.

It has several holiday letting properties and the well-maintained Guilderton Holiday Park for campers. The caravan park nestles behind the tall, grass-covered sand dunes on top of which is a viewpoint across the township and out across the Indian Ocean. This all makes Guilderton a fabulous stop for tourers exploring the wider coastal area and inland towards Gingin. Another wee gem outside of Perth!